Choose the part of the home and what you're noticing. You'll see what it usually means, what is safe to do right now, and where to go next: the service to book, quick answers in the help centre and a guide to read.
Smoke, fire or immediate danger?
Get everyone out of the house first. Switch off at the switchboard only if it is safe to reach, and never touch anything that is wet, hot, sparking or damaged.
The same answers in one list, for anyone who would rather scan. Each one says what the problem usually means, what you can safely do and where to go next.
Power & electrical
Power off, breakers tripping, sparks, burning smells and the switchboard.
Power & electrical
No power anywhere in the house
What it usually means
If the whole house is off, first work out whether the street is out too. When the neighbours and street lights are also dark, it is a network outage and your electricity distributor restores it. When only your home is off, the main switch, a safety switch or the supply to your house is the likely cause.
What you can safely do now
1Look at the neighbours' lights and the street lights.
2Check your distributor's outage information. The faults number is on your electricity bill.
3At the switchboard, check the main switch and the safety switches. If a safety switch has tripped, reset it once; if it won't reset, leave it off and call a licensed electrician.
4Turn off and unplug appliances at the power point, so a surge doesn't damage them when the power comes back.
When some rooms are dead and the rest of the house works, a circuit breaker or safety switch has usually tripped, or one circuit has a fault such as a loose connection. In a three-phase home, losing one phase of the supply can also take out part of the house.
What you can safely do now
1Check the switchboard for a breaker or safety switch that is off or sitting in the middle position.
2Unplug everything in the dead rooms, then reset the switch once.
3If it won't reset, or trips again straight away, leave it off.
4If nothing at the board has tripped, note which rooms, lights and points are dead. It helps the electrician find the fault faster.
A breaker that trips again and again is doing its job: something on that circuit is drawing too much current or has a fault. It can be one appliance, too many heavy loads on one circuit at once (a heater, kettle and dryer together, say), or damaged wiring.
What you can safely do now
1Note what was running when it tripped and the time of day.
2Turn off or unplug the appliances on that circuit and reset the breaker once.
3Plug them back in one at a time to see whether one appliance trips it.
4If it trips with nothing plugged in, leave it off and book an electrician.
If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out of the house first.
What it usually means
A hot plastic or fishy smell near a point, switch, light or the switchboard usually means a connection is overheating. Loose terminals, an overloaded powerboard or a failing fitting can all cause it, and left alone it can start a fire.
What you can safely do now
1If it is safe to reach, switch off that circuit or the main switch at the switchboard.
2Unplug an appliance from the point only if the point isn't hot, sparking or damaged.
3Leave it off until an electrician has found the cause.
If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out of the house first.
What it usually means
Sparks, crackling, scorch marks or a plate that feels warm all point to a loose or damaged connection behind the point. Energy Safe Victoria lists sparks from switches and power points among the warning signs of faulty wiring.
What you can safely do now
1Stop using the point and switch it off.
2Switch off that circuit at the switchboard if it is safe to reach.
3Don't touch or try to repair a cracked, loose or broken point. Cover it so no one else uses it.
A single dead point is often a tripped safety switch or breaker, the switch on the point itself, or a loose connection at that point. When several points in a row go dead together, the fault is often at the first point in the run.
What you can safely do now
1Check the switch on the point and try a lamp or charger you know works.
2Look for a tripped breaker or safety switch and reset it once.
3Don't take the cover plate off or open the point.
4If the point is warm, discoloured or smells hot, stop using it and switch the circuit off.
If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out of the house first.
What it usually means
Water from a roof leak, burst pipe or leaking appliance can reach wiring, light fittings and the switchboard, and can make fittings and wet surfaces live. Keep everyone away from the water until the power to that area is off.
What you can safely do now
1Keep everyone, including pets, away from the water and any wet fittings.
2Switch off at the switchboard only if you can reach it without standing in water or touching anything wet.
3If you can't reach it safely, stay clear.
4Have the circuit tested before it goes back on, especially after water has come through a light fitting.
If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out of the house first.
What it usually means
A tingle from a tap, an appliance, a metal fitting or a wet surface is a warning sign of an earthing or wiring fault, and it can get worse without notice. Treat it as dangerous and stop using whatever gave you the tingle.
What you can safely do now
1Don't touch it again, and keep everyone else away from it.
2Switch off that circuit or the main switch at the switchboard if it is safe to reach.
3If anyone has had a shock, get medical advice, even if they seem fine.
4Have it tested by a licensed electrician before anyone uses it again.
Lightning nearby, or the supply coming back after an outage, can send a voltage spike through the wiring and damage electronics. Energy Safe Victoria explains that surge diverters capture voltage spikes in the wiring that would otherwise pass into your equipment.
What you can safely do now
1Check whether a breaker or safety switch tripped and reset it once.
2Don't use anything that smells burnt, sparks or looks damaged.
3During future outages, turn off and unplug appliances at the power point.
4If a powerline is down near your home, stay well clear and report it to your electricity distributor.
Rewireable ceramic fuses are still found in many older homes, and these boards often have no safety switches. Energy Safe Victoria lists old switchboards, particularly those without a safety switch, among the signs of faulty wiring, and some old boards contain asbestos.
What you can safely do now
1Check for a safety switch: it has a test button and '30mA' printed on it.
2Never replace fuse wire with a heavier one to stop a fuse blowing.
3Don't drill, cut or sand the switchboard or its backing board.
4If you rent, the rental minimum standards require a switchboard with circuit breakers and safety switches.
A ducted system, EV charger or induction cooktop usually needs its own circuit, and an older or full switchboard may not have the space or capacity for one. Sometimes the board needs a few more spaces; sometimes the supply to the house needs a look too. Three-phase can make sense for large ducted systems, faster EV charging or a workshop.
What you can safely do now
1Find the appliance's electrical requirements on its spec sheet or installation manual.
2Take a photo of the switchboard with the door open. Don't remove any covers.
3Ask about the switchboard before you buy the appliance, not after.
Flickering, dead or buzzing lights, hot switches, downlights, sensors and fans.
Lights & switches
Lights flickering or dimming
What it usually means
Flicker on one light is often the globe, or an LED that doesn't suit the dimmer: an old dimmer isn't automatically compatible with a new LED driver. Flicker across several rooms points to a loose connection or a supply issue that needs testing.
What you can safely do now
1With the light off and cool, try a new globe of the right type.
2If it's on a dimmer, check the globe is marked dimmable.
3Note whether it happens when a certain appliance starts or at a certain time of day.
4If you hear buzzing, see scorch marks or smell burning, switch the circuit off and leave it.
A brief dip as a big motor starts can be normal. A deep or lasting dim, or one that is getting worse, can mean a loose connection on the main supply or an overloaded circuit, and is worth testing.
What you can safely do now
1Note which appliance causes it and how long the dim lasts.
2Ask the neighbours whether their lights dip too. If they do, tell your distributor; the faults number is on your electricity bill.
3Avoid running several heavy appliances on one circuit at the same time.
4If the dimming comes with buzzing, flickering or a hot smell, switch off and book a check.
If a new globe doesn't fix it, the fitting, the switch or the wiring between them has probably failed. LED drivers in downlights and old fittings with brittle wiring are common culprits.
What you can safely do now
1Check the breaker or safety switch for the lighting circuit.
2Try a globe you know works, with the switch off.
3Don't take the fitting down or open the switch plate.
4If the fitting or switch is warm, buzzing or discoloured, leave it off.
A switch should never feel hot or make a noise. Buzzing or crackling usually means a loose or arcing connection, or a dimmer carrying more load than it is rated for.
What you can safely do now
1Turn the light off and leave it off.
2Switch off the lighting circuit at the switchboard if it is safe to reach.
3Don't remove the switch plate. Energy Safe Victoria says even changing a light switch isn't a DIY job.
4If you see smoke or flames, get everyone out of the house.
Older halogen downlights and their transformers run hot, and ceiling insulation pushed up against them is a fire risk. LED downlights run much cooler, use less power and can be chosen to suit the insulation in your ceiling.
What you can safely do now
1Don't push insulation against old downlights or cover them.
2Count the downlights and transformers, room by room.
3If a fitting is discoloured, flickering or smells hot, switch it off.
4Adding insulation? Sort the downlights out first.
Sensor lights that stay on, flick on and off, or never trigger usually have a sensitivity or timer setting that needs adjusting, a sensor facing a moving tree or a busy road, or a sensor head that has failed after years in the weather. Water getting into the fitting can also trip the safety switch.
What you can safely do now
1Check the time and sensitivity adjusters on the sensor, if you can reach them safely.
2Wipe the sensor lens and look for branches or heat sources in its view.
3Don't open the fitting or its weatherproof box.
4If water has got inside the fitting, switch that circuit off.
Many older homes have one central light per room, which leaves benches, desks and corners in shadow. A mix of ceiling, task and feature lighting on separate switches usually fixes a dark room better than simply adding more downlights.
What you can safely do now
1Note where you need light for tasks: benches, desks, mirrors and stairs.
2Check which switches control which lights.
3Renting? The minimum standards say rooms, corridors and hallways must have enough light to be usable.
A fan that runs but leaves the mirror fogged is often vented into the roof space instead of outside, too small for the room, or clogged with lint. Steam that hangs around leads to mould on the ceiling and walls.
What you can safely do now
1With the fan switched off, clean the grille.
2Leave the door slightly open while it runs, so fresh air can get in.
3Stop using a fan that is noisy, hot or smells burnt.
A slight wobble can come from loose blade screws or blades out of balance. Heavy wobble, grinding, a fan that hums without spinning or a speed control that has stopped working points to a worn motor, a failed controller or a loose mounting.
What you can safely do now
1Turn the fan off and let it stop before you check anything.
2Check the blade screws are tight, if you can reach them safely.
3Stop using a fan that wobbles heavily, sparks or smells hot.
4Don't take the canopy down or open the wall controller.
Split, ducted and evaporative systems that won't cool, leak, ice up or rattle.
Air conditioning
Air conditioner blowing warm air
What it usually means
Check the mode first: a unit on heat, fan or auto can blow warm air. If it is set to cool, the usual causes are blocked filters, a dirty outdoor coil, low refrigerant from a leak, or an outdoor unit that has stopped running.
What you can safely do now
1Set it to cool, a few degrees below the room temperature, and give it a few minutes.
2Switch the unit off and clean the indoor filters if you can reach them safely.
3Check the outdoor unit's fan is spinning and nothing is blocking it.
4Don't let anyone top up the refrigerant until the leak has been found and repaired.
Indoor units make condensation that should run away through a drain line. When the drain blocks, the line sags or the coil ices up from dirty filters or low refrigerant, the water overflows and runs down the wall.
What you can safely do now
1Turn the unit off at the controller.
2If water is running near a power point or the unit's wiring, switch the air conditioner circuit off at the switchboard if it is safe to reach.
3Move furniture and put a towel or bucket under the drip.
4Clean the filters once it's off, but don't open the casing.
No response at all often comes down to power: a tripped breaker or safety switch, the isolator switch next to the outdoor unit turned off, or flat batteries in the remote. A unit that starts and then shuts down, or shows an error code, has a fault the code helps narrow down.
What you can safely do now
1Put new batteries in the remote and try again.
2Check the switchboard for a tripped air conditioner breaker or safety switch and reset it once.
3Write down any error code or pattern of flashing lights, and the model number.
In heating mode on cold mornings, frost on the outdoor unit is normal and the unit pauses to defrost. Ice on the indoor coil or the pipes while it is cooling is not normal, and usually means blocked filters, poor airflow or low refrigerant from a leak.
What you can safely do now
1Switch the unit off and let the ice melt.
2Clean the filters and check nothing is blocking the indoor or outdoor unit.
3Don't chip at the ice or touch the pipes and fins.
4If it ices up again, ask for a leak check rather than a top-up.
A damp, musty smell usually comes from mould and dust on the coil, fan or drain tray, especially in units that sit unused for months. A burning or electrical smell is different: it can be an overheating motor or connection, and the unit should stay off.
What you can safely do now
1For a burning or electrical smell, switch the unit off at the switchboard if it is safe to reach, and leave it off.
2For a musty smell, switch the unit off and clean the filters.
3If your unit has a dry or self-clean mode, run it after cooling.
Rattles often come from loose panels, mounting brackets or leaves in the outdoor fan. Buzzing, grinding or squealing can be a failing fan motor or bearing, and repeated clicking without starting can be an electrical fault in the unit.
What you can safely do now
1Turn it off if the noise is new and loud, grinding, or comes with a burning smell.
2With the unit off, clear leaves and objects from around the outdoor unit.
3Note when the noise happens: starting up, running or shutting down.
Weak airflow in some rooms usually comes from zones switched off at the controller, closed or blocked vents, or a dirty return-air filter. If those are fine, a zone damper may have stuck shut, or a duct may have come loose, split or been crushed in the roof space.
What you can safely do now
1Check those zones are switched on at the controller.
2Open the vents in the room and move furniture away from them.
3Check the return-air filter and clean it if it's dusty.
4Leave the ducts in the roof to a technician: roof spaces hide cables and fragile ceilings.
On a hot northerly day any system works hard. If yours falls well behind, it may be too small for the space, short of refrigerant, overdue for a service, or fighting a room with a lot of unshaded glass.
What you can safely do now
1Close blinds and curtains on sun-facing windows early in the day.
2Start cooling in the morning, before the house heats up.
3Set 24 to 26°C for living areas; every degree cooler adds to the running cost.
4Keep the filters clean and the outdoor unit clear of plants and clutter.
Evaporative coolers need water flowing over clean pads and some windows or doors open. Warm air usually means the pads aren't getting wet (a pump, float or water supply fault) or the house is shut up; a swampy smell points to old pads or stale water.
What you can safely do now
1Open some windows or doors so the air has somewhere to go.
2Check the water supply tap to the cooler is turned on.
Heaters that won't start or blow cold, gas safety worries and hot water faults.
Heating & hot water
Heater not starting
What it usually means
Start with the controller: it needs to be on heat, set above the room temperature, with the right zones on. Gas ducted heaters run a start-up sequence and lock out if a step fails, and reverse-cycle units can pause to defrost on cold mornings.
What you can safely do now
1Check the controller's mode, set temperature and zones.
2Check the switchboard for a tripped breaker or safety switch and reset it once.
3Write down any error code on the controller.
4Don't open, relight or adjust a gas heater: that is work for a licensed gasfitter.
A gas ducted heater that runs its fan but doesn't light will blow cool air, and a reverse-cycle unit blows cool air for a short time while it defrosts. Constant cold air from a gas heater usually means the burner isn't lighting or the flame isn't being detected.
What you can safely do now
1Give a reverse-cycle unit a few minutes; defrost cycles stop on their own.
2Check the return-air grille isn't blocked.
3If the controller shows a lockout code, write it down rather than resetting it over and over.
4Burner and gas valve faults are work for a licensed Type A gasfitter.
A heater that starts, runs for a while and stops is often overheating because a blocked return-air filter or closed vents are restricting the airflow, or a safety sensor is shutting it down. Repeated lockouts are a reason to get it checked, not to keep restarting it.
What you can safely do now
1Clear the return-air grille and open the vents in the zones that are on.
2Note how long it runs before it cuts out, and any error code.
If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out of the house first.
What it usually means
A gas smell, or headaches, dizziness, nausea or tiredness while a gas heater runs, can mean a gas leak or carbon monoxide spilling from the heater. Carbon monoxide can't be seen or smelt, and it can make you seriously unwell or kill you.
What you can safely do now
1Turn the heater off and get everyone into fresh air.
2Seek medical help if anyone feels unwell.
3If you smell gas, don't use switches or naked flames nearby, and report the leak to your gas distributor. The faults number is on your gas bill.
4Don't use the heater again until a licensed gasfitter has checked it, including a carbon monoxide test.
A change in how a gas heater runs, such as a lazy yellow or orange flame, soot marks or a new smell, can be a sign of poor combustion. Energy Safe Victoria says any change like this means a qualified gasfitter should inspect the heater and check it for carbon monoxide leakage.
What you can safely do now
1Stop using the heater until it has been checked.
2Don't run the rangehood or bathroom exhaust fans while a gas heater is on; it can draw carbon monoxide into the room.
3Take extra care with open-flued heaters, which spill carbon monoxide more easily.
On an electric or heat pump system, cold water usually traces back to the power: a tripped hot water circuit, an off-peak timer that didn't switch, or a failed element or thermostat. On a gas system the pilot or burner is the usual suspect, and that is work for a licensed gasfitter or plumber.
What you can safely do now
1Check the switchboard for a tripped hot water breaker or safety switch and reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off.
2After a power cut, check the unit's timer and settings.
3Note any error code and the model number from the label.
A small release from the relief valve while the tank heats can be normal, but constant flow, water pooling under the tank or rust on the base usually means a valve fault or a tank near the end of its life. From 1 March 2027, a gas hot water system in an existing home that breaks and can't be repaired must generally be replaced with an electric one.
What you can safely do now
1Keep clear of water near the unit's electrics.
2Switch the hot water circuit off at the switchboard if water is near the electrics and it is safe to reach.
3Turn off the cold water supply to the tank if the valve is easy to reach.
4Valve and tank repairs are plumbing work for a licensed plumber.
A heat pump water heater runs a fan and compressor much like an outdoor air conditioner unit, so a steady hum is normal. Rattling, grinding, or a unit that trips its circuit points to a fan, compressor or electrical fault.
What you can safely do now
1Reset a tripped hot water circuit once. If it trips again, leave it off.
2Keep leaves and clutter clear of the fan and coil.
3Note when the noise happens; many units run overnight or on a timer.
A heater that isn't working in a rental is on Consumer Affairs Victoria's list of urgent repairs, along with a dangerous electrical fault and a loss of gas or electricity supply. The rental provider must organise and pay for repairs unless the renter caused the problem.
What you can safely do now
1Tell your agent or rental provider in writing, with photos and any error code.
2Check the controller and the switchboard first, so you can say what you've already tried.
3Don't open the heater or attempt the repair yourself.
Chirping or false alarms, safety switches that trip or won't reset, and rental checks.
Smoke alarms & safety switches
Safety switch keeps tripping
What it usually means
A safety switch cuts the power when it detects electricity leaking from a circuit, which is how it protects people from a shock. Common causes are a faulty appliance (kettles, heaters, fridges and hot water elements are frequent ones), water in an outdoor point or light, or damaged wiring.
What you can safely do now
1Unplug everything on the affected circuits, then reset the safety switch once.
2Plug appliances back in one at a time to find a faulty one.
3If it trips with nothing plugged in, or won't reset, leave it off and call a licensed electrician.
If the switch snaps straight back off, a fault is usually still connected. If it won't stay on even with everything unplugged, the fault is likely in the fixed wiring or a hard-wired appliance, or the safety switch itself has failed.
What you can safely do now
1Unplug everything on the circuits it protects and try once more.
2Switch off the circuit breakers below it, reset the safety switch, then turn the breakers back on one at a time. The one that trips it is the circuit with the fault.
3Leave that circuit off and call a licensed electrician.
Pressing the test button should cut the power and switch the safety switch off. Energy Safe Victoria says that if lights or appliances don't lose power, the safety switch may have failed and a licensed electrician should investigate straight away.
What you can safely do now
1Press the test button once more, firmly.
2Note which safety switch failed and which circuits it covers.
3Book a check, and don't rely on that circuit's protection in the meantime.
4Test the others every three months, as Energy Safe Victoria suggests.
Trips that line up with rain usually mean water is getting into an outdoor power point, light, sensor or garden light, or into a cable joint underground. The safety switch is doing its job by cutting the power.
What you can safely do now
1Note which safety switch trips and what outdoor fittings are on that circuit.
2Keep clear of outdoor fittings that are wet, cracked or damaged.
3Once things have dried out, reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off.
A short chirp every minute or so usually means the battery is low. It can also mean the alarm has reached the end of its life: smoke alarms generally need replacing after about ten years, and newer units show an expiry date under the battery.
What you can safely do now
1Replace the battery. Anyone can change a smoke alarm battery.
2Press and hold the test button until the alarm beeps.
3Check the expiry date, and replace any alarm that is past it.
4A hard-wired alarm must be replaced by a qualified electrician.
Nuisance alarms usually come from steam or cooking fumes reaching an alarm, dust or insects inside the sensor, or an alarm near the end of its life. With interconnected alarms every alarm sounds together, so the one that started it may be in another room.
What you can safely do now
1First make sure there is no smoke or fire anywhere in the house. If there is, get everyone out.
2Use the hush button if it has one, and air out the area.
3Gently vacuum the outside vents of the alarm.
4Don't take the battery out or disconnect an alarm to stop it.
Missing smoke alarms, or alarms that don't sound together
What it usually means
Victorian homes need smoke alarms on every storey, between the bedrooms and the rest of the house. Homes built after 1 August 1997 need hard-wired alarms with battery backup, and homes built, largely renovated or extended after 1 May 2014 need them interconnected.
What you can safely do now
1Walk through the house and note where each alarm is, and whether it is battery-only or wired in.
2Test each alarm with its test button.
3Hard-wired alarms must be installed by a qualified electrician.
Since 25 November 2025, every Victorian rental needs an annual smoke alarm safety check. From 13 October 2026, the two-yearly electrical and gas safety checks apply to all rental agreements, whenever they started.
What you can safely do now
1Find the dates of the last smoke alarm, electrical and gas checks.
2Keep the record the electrician gives you after each check.
3Gas safety checks are done by a licensed gasfitter, and electrical checks by a licensed electrician.
If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out of the house first.
What it usually means
A carbon monoxide alarm sounding means it has detected the gas, often from a gas heater, so treat it as real. Carbon monoxide can't be seen or smelt, and it can make you seriously unwell or kill you.
What you can safely do now
1Turn off gas heaters and appliances if you can do it on your way out.
2Get everyone into fresh air and leave the doors open.
3Seek medical help if anyone has a headache, dizziness, nausea or feels unwell.
4Don't use the heater again until a licensed gasfitter has checked it.
Yes. Energy Safe Victoria advises checking whether the safety switch has tripped and resetting it. Unplug the appliances on that circuit first and reset it once. If it won't reset, or trips again straight away, leave it off and have a licensed electrician find the fault.
No. Stop using it, switch the circuit off at the switchboard if it is safe to reach, and cover a cracked or broken point so no one else uses it. Energy Safe Victoria says not to touch or try to repair a loose, cracked or broken power point.
Check whether the neighbours and the street lights are also off. If they are, it is a network outage and your electricity distributor restores it; the faults number is on your electricity bill. If only your home is off, check the main switch and the safety switches at your switchboard.
The rental provider. Tell your agent or rental provider in writing. Consumer Affairs Victoria lists a dangerous electrical fault, a gas leak, a loss of gas or electricity supply, and heating or hot water that isn't working as urgent repairs, which must be done immediately.
It depends on the part. Power, controls and wiring are electrical work for a licensed electrician. Burner and gas valve work must be done by a licensed Type A gasfitter, and valve or tank plumbing by a licensed plumber.
Sources for the safety and rules on this page
26 sources, with the date each was checked
1.Energy Safe Victoria: Locate your electricity box outside your home and check whether the safety switch has tripped. If it has tripped, reset the switch. If the switch won’t reset, call a licensed electrician. Accessed 30 September 2026.
2.Energy Safe Victoria: In the event of a power failure turn off and unplug all electrical appliances at the powerpoint. This will help to prevent equipment damage in the event of a power surge. Accessed 30 September 2026.
3.Energy Safe Victoria: Old switchboards, particularly those without a safety switch
Old power switches or power points, particularly broken ones
Flickering lights
Sparks from switchboards, switches or power points.
If your house is over 30… Accessed 30 September 2026.
4.Energy Safe Victoria: Do not touch or attempt to repair a loose, cracked or broken power point switch – cover it immediately and arrange for a licensed electrician to replace it. Accessed 30 September 2026.
5.Energy Safe Victoria: Surge diverters protect the property from voltage surges such as those resulting from a lightning strike. The surge diverter captures the voltage spikes in the wiring that would otherwise be transferred into the… Accessed 30 September 2026.
6.Energy Safe Victoria: Who do I contact to fix fallen or unsafe powerlines, a rotting or damaged power pole, or a leaning pole? Contact your local power company, also known as the electricity distribution company Accessed 30 September 2026.
7.WorkSafe Victoria: Fuse blankets and ceramic fuses in switchboards
Pitch-based (eg Zelemite, Ausbestos, Lebah) electrical switchboards Accessed 30 September 2026.
8.Consumer Affairs Victoria: The electrical safety rental minimum standard commenced on 29 March 2023.
Rental properties must have modern switchboards, with circuit breakers and electrical safety switches installed. Electrical safety switches are… Accessed 30 September 2026.
9.Energy Safe Victoria: Electrical work isn’t a DIY job, even for small jobs such as changing power points or light switches. Accessed 30 September 2026.
10.Solar Victoria (updated 20 November 2025): Check the manufacturer’s instructions or manual and have the air conditioner serviced regularly at the recommended frequency to ensure it continues to operate efficiently. Cleaning the filters regularly helps the system… Accessed 30 September 2026.
13.energy.gov.au (Australian Government, DCCEEW): Evaporative coolers work by blowing air over a film of water on a filter or sponge, cooling the sponge and the air through the process of evaporation. Outside air is drawn through the evaporative unit (generally on the… Accessed 30 September 2026.
14.YourHome (Australian Government): Evaporative coolers cool outside air and blow it into the house; some windows or doors will need to be left open when the cooler is in use to allow indoor air to exit. ... For central systems, water use can be 25 L or… Accessed 30 September 2026.
15.Energy Safe Victoria: Gas and electricity are inherently dangerous and it’s illegal and potentially fatal for unlicensed and unqualified people to undertake any gasfitting or electrical work. Accessed 30 September 2026.
16.Energy Safe Victoria: Type A appliances include domestic and light commercial type appliances such cookers, space heaters, central heaters, water heaters, catering equipment and leisure appliances. So, when looking to service and repair your… Accessed 30 September 2026.
17.Department of Health (Victoria): When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it replaces oxygen in the blood, which may cause symptoms including tiredness, shortness of breath, headaches, dizziness, nausea, weakness, confusion or chest pain. Accessed 30 September 2026.
18.Energy Safe Victoria: All gas heaters can spill carbon monoxide (CO) – a gas you can’t see or smell that can make you seriously unwell or kill you. Accessed 30 September 2026.
19.Department of Energy, Environment and Climate Action (Victoria): From 1 March 2027, if a gas hot water appliance breaks and cannot be repaired, it must be replaced with an electric alternative. No requirement to upgrade gas space heating or stovetop gas cooking to electric, however… Accessed 30 September 2026.
20.Department of Transport and Planning (Victoria): Victoria’s new Building and Plumbing Amendment Regulations 2025 have been finalised, advancing Victoria’s shift toward all-electric buildings. From 1 January 2027, all new homes and most new commercial buildings will be… Accessed 30 September 2026.
21.Consumer Affairs Victoria: Anything on this list is legally defined as an urgent repair:
burst water service
blocked or broken toilet system
serious roof leak
gas leak
dangerous electrical fault
flooding or serious flood damage
serious… Accessed 30 September 2026.
23.Consumer Affairs Victoria: A hard-wired smoke alarm must be installed by a qualified electrician, but anyone can change a smoke alarm battery. Accessed 30 September 2026.
24.Fire Rescue Victoria: TEST your smoke alarm batteries
Every month
Press and hold the test button until the smoke alarm beeps three times. Accessed 30 September 2026.
25.Consumer Affairs Victoria: Mandatory gas and electrical safety checks every 2 years for all rental properties
Rental providers and their agents must arrange gas and electrical safety checks by a qualified tradesperson every 2 years for all… Accessed 30 September 2026.
26.Building and Plumbing Commission: The gasfitter doing the servicing work must be registered or licensed in the specialised class of Type A appliance servicing. Accessed 30 September 2026.
General guidance for Victorian homes. Electrical work must be done by a licensed electrician, gas work by a licensed gasfitter and plumbing by a licensed plumber. Where this page mentions Victorian safety or rental rules, use the linked official sources for the current requirements.
