A ducted reverse cycle system heats and cools every room from one indoor unit hidden in the roof space, with ducts running to a vent in each room and a return air grille in the hallway. It's quiet, and the only things you see are the vents and the controller. A good result depends on the duct layout and on the unit being sized for the whole house, so we look at both before we quote. We install Mitsubishi Electric and Fujitsu ducted systems and handle the dedicated circuit and switchboard side ourselves.
When to get it checked
The living room is fine, the bedrooms aren't
A wall unit keeps the lounge comfortable, but the bedrooms at the end of the hallway stay cold in July and stuffy on summer nights.
Gas ducted heating and nothing for summer
The house already has ducts and vents for winter, then fans and a portable cooler come out in January.
A split in nearly every room
Each head has its own outdoor unit, pipe run and circuit. Walls fill with equipment and the side of the house becomes a row of condensers.
Renovating, extending or reroofing
The ceiling or roof is opening up anyway. It's the easiest time to plan duct runs, the return air path and the extra circuit.
An ageing ducted system
The existing unit is noisy, struggles on the hottest and coldest days, or keeps needing repairs. That starts a conversation about replacement and what can be reused.
Why it happens
4 common causes
Conditioned air doesn't turn corners
A wall split treats the room it's in. Hallways, closed doors and long floor plans stop it reaching rooms further away.
Heat rises and roofs soak it up
Warm air collects upstairs, and a roof in afternoon sun keeps radiating heat into the rooms below. Those rooms need their own outlets and, ideally, their own zone.
The wrong size for the house
Too small, and the system runs flat out and still falls behind on the hottest afternoons. Too big, and it cycles on and off, leaving rooms uneven and the air clammy.
Ducts that were never laid out well
Long, sagging or kinked flexible duct, too few returns, or outlets placed for convenience rather than for the room all rob airflow before it reaches the vent.
What the job covers
What we usually do on this job. Your quote confirms it for your place.
- Heat load worked out room by room
- Duct layout planned for each room, with zones if you want them
- Indoor unit installed in the roof space on anti-vibration mounts
- Outdoor unit placed with clear airflow
- Insulated flexible ductwork run and sealed at every joint
- Ceiling vents and return air grille cut in and fitted
- Wall controller installed where you'll use it
- Dedicated circuit and outdoor isolator
- Switchboard capacity checked before we start
- System commissioned and airflow checked at each vent
Your options, explained
Zoned ducted reverse cycle
Medium disruption- Best for
- Houses where living areas are used by day and bedrooms at night
- How it works
- One indoor unit in the roof feeds every room through insulated ducts, with motorised dampers splitting the house into zones.
- Worth knowing
- Most existing homes take one to two days, depending on roof access and the number of rooms. Zones are far easier to plan in at the start than to add later.
Split systems room by room
Low disruption- Best for
- Homes that heat and cool only two or three rooms at a time
- How it works
- Each room gets its own wall-mounted indoor unit and outdoor unit.
- Worth knowing
- Wall units are more efficient than ducted, and you can add them one at a time. You do see a head in every room.
Multi-head system
Medium disruption- Best for
- Several rooms but little space outside for condensers
- How it works
- Two or more indoor units share one outdoor unit, each with its own controller.
- Worth knowing
- Suits homes without usable roof space. Capacity is shared, so selection matters when several rooms run at once.
Reverse cycle in place of gas ducted heating
High disruption- Best for
- Homes with gas ducted heating that want cooling too
- How it works
- The gas heater comes out and a reverse cycle ducted system goes in, reusing ducts and outlets where they're sound.
- Worth knowing
- Floor vents that suited heating aren't always right for cooling, and older ducts can be undersized or poorly insulated. We check before deciding what stays.
The people behind the work
One local team for electrical, heating and cooling. Family-run, based in Altona Meadows, with 19 years in the industry.
Licensed electrical contractor (REC 38187)See more team photos
Worth knowing before you book
- Roof space matters
- The indoor unit needs somewhere to sit and room for us to work. Low-pitched roofs and double storey homes can change where it goes and how the ducts run.
- Zoning saves heating empty rooms
- Zones let you run the living areas in the day and the bedrooms at night. It's easier to plan in at the start than to add later.
- It's a big electrical load
- Ducted systems draw a lot of power. We check the switchboard and your supply before quoting, because an upgrade may be part of the job.
What affects the price?
The right scope depends on your installation. These are the details we check so your quote is useful, with any additional work explained before it proceeds.
Size of the home and number of outlets
More rooms mean a larger unit, more duct, more vents and more time in the roof. Big open-plan areas can need two outlets.
Roof space and access
A low-pitched roof, a tight manhole or a double storey layout changes where the unit sits and how the ducts run.
Zones and controls
Each zone adds a motorised damper and wiring. Room sensors and app control are extras you choose.
Outdoor unit location
A long pipe run, a wall bracket, a second-storey position or a spot chosen to keep noise from bedrooms all affect labour and materials.
Switchboard and supply
A dedicated circuit is standard. An old or full switchboard may need upgrading first, and main switchboard work needs an independent inspection.
What's coming out
Removing an old gas heater, an evaporative cooler or redundant vents, and patching what they leave behind, is part of the scope we price.
Before the visit
- Prepare a floor plan and note when each room is occupied.
- Tell us about roof access, insulation and any future extensions.
- Identify rooms with persistent sun or cold-draught issues.
How it runs
- 1
Site visit
We look at the roof space, each room, the switchboard and where the outdoor unit can go.
- 2
Design and quote
You get a unit size, a duct and zone layout and a fixed price, with options explained.
- 3
Install
Unit, ductwork, vents, controller and electrical, usually over one or two days.
- 4
Commission and walk through
We balance the airflow, test heating and cooling and show you the controller and filter.
Step by step, in more detail
6 steps
Look at the house, not only the unit
We walk every room, check the roof space and access, and note windows, insulation and ceiling heights. We also look at the switchboard and where the outdoor unit can sit with clear airflow.
Work out the heat load and layout
We calculate what each room needs, then size the unit. The duct plan sets outlet sizes and positions, the return air location and any zones.
Quote with the options explained
You get the unit size, duct and zone layout and electrical work in writing, with a fixed price for the agreed scope. If splits or a multi-head would suit better, we say so.
Install the system and ductwork
The indoor unit goes on anti-vibration mounts in the roof. Insulated ducts are run and sealed at every joint, vents and the return air grille are cut in, and the controller goes where you'll use it.
Wire it in and connect the refrigerant side
We run the dedicated circuit and fit the outdoor isolator. Refrigerant pipework is connected, pressure tested and charged by a technician holding a refrigerant handling licence.
Commission, balance and hand over
We test heating and cooling, check airflow at each vent and balance the zones, then show you the controller and the return air filter.
What is safe to do, and what to leave to us
Safe for you to do
- Set heating to 18–20 °C and cooling to 24–26 °C in living areas. Each degree beyond that adds around 10% to running costs.
- Keep the return air grille and supply vents clear of furniture and curtains.
- Keep plants, bins and stored gear away from the outdoor unit.
- If a safety switch trips, reset it once. If it trips again or won't reset, leave it off and call a licensed electrician.
Leave these to us
- Opening the indoor unit, outdoor unit or isolator. Electrical work is not a DIY job.
- Adding refrigerant or using a top-up kit. Topping up before leaks are found and repaired is illegal.
- Moving, cutting or rejoining ducts in the roof space yourself.
- Closing most of the vents to save energy. It restricts airflow and works the system harder; zones do that job properly.
When to get us in
- You're weighing up ducted against split systems and want it sized properly
- You're planning a renovation, extension or new roof
- You want to replace gas ducted heating or evaporative cooling with reverse cycle
- Your switchboard has old fuses or no room for another circuit
- An existing ducted system trips the power, blows the wrong temperature or has become noisy
More detail
Sizing starts with the house, not the unit
The Victorian Government's guide for ducted systems is 1.1 to 1.4 kW of heating output for every 10 m² covered, depending on the home. Insulation, glazing, ceiling height and orientation decide where yours sits in that range. A post-war weatherboard with thin batts and a newer estate home of the same size can need quite different systems, so we calculate room by room.
Ducted efficiency, honestly
Reverse-cycle systems are 300% to 600% efficient because they move heat rather than make it. Ducted systems sit below wall units, since the fan is larger and some energy is lost through the ducts, though they are still more cost-efficient than gas heating. That's why duct quality and zoning matter: guidance calls for ducts insulated to at least R1.5 with sealed joints.
Comparing models for Melbourne
Commonwealth guidance on the energy rating label puts Melbourne in the cold zone, where heating is used much more than cooling and performance below 5.5 °C is critical. In stores, the label is mandatory on non-ducted, single-split units, and ducted systems aren't covered by that requirement. We put the manufacturers' published heating and cooling figures side by side instead.
The electrical side, done by the same team
We check the switchboard before a new reverse cycle system goes in. Where a manufacturer specifies a dedicated circuit or RCD protection, Energy Safe Victoria says that must be followed, and the Wiring Rules call for a lockable isolating switch next to the unit, not on it. As a licensed electrical contractor (REC 38187), we do this work ourselves and issue a Certificate of Electrical Safety.
Who holds which licence
A refrigeration mechanic's restricted electrical licence covers like-for-like disconnection and reconnection only; fixed electrical installation work needs a licensed electrician. Installing or commissioning air conditioning needs a refrigerant handling licence, and in Victoria it's also a class of plumbing work regulated by the Building and Plumbing Commission. If a gas heater is coming out, the gas side is for a licensed gasfitter.
Local rules and conditions
Victorian requirements and local conditions that shape this job, with the sources listed at the foot of the page.
Cold nights matter as much as hot days
The Laverton weather station averages 27 days a year at or above 30 °C, mostly December to February, and July nights average a minimum of 5.2 °C. Victorians typically use more energy for heating than cooling, so we size for winter as well as the hottest afternoons.
Rental standards from March 2027
Today, a ducted heating system with an outlet in the main living area counts as an energy-efficient fixed heater for rentals. From 1 March 2027, where the new standards apply, an electric ducted system needs a GEMS Heating Seasonal Performance Factor of 3.2 or above, and a Total Cooling Seasonal Performance Factor of 3.8 or above, for the property's climate area. Consumer Affairs Victoria notes one reverse-cycle system can meet both standards.
Moving off gas ducted heating
Owner-occupiers aren't required to switch gas space heating to electric, though the Victorian Government encourages it. If you're weighing it up, we look at the existing ducts, the roof space and your switchboard, then price a reverse-cycle system so you can compare it with keeping gas.
Useful reading
Guides to read before you decide, with checklists and questions to bring to the quote.
- Split system or ducted: choose around the rooms you useCompare layouts, zoning, installation work and quote details before choosing equipment for your home.
- Ducted zoning explainedZones, dampers, controllers and room sensors in plain terms, plus the airflow limits that decide whether zoning will fix your comfort problem.
- Reverse-cycle air conditioning or gas heating?How each one makes heat, how it feels on a cold night in Melbourne's west, what Victoria's gas rules mean for you and what switching really involves.
- Air conditioner maintenance: what to watch between servicesKeep useful records, follow model-specific filter care and recognise symptoms that need a repair visit.
Common questions
From the blog
- Is ducted air conditioning worth it in a small home or unit?In a two- or three-bedroom home or unit, a couple of well-placed splits often beat ducted. Ducted still makes sense in some small homes. Here is where the line falls.
- Keep gas ducted heating and add splits, or go ducted reverse-cycle?Sound gas heater and only two rooms to cool? Keep it and add splits. Ageing heater, or cooling wanted throughout? Ducted reverse-cycle is usually the better move.
- What affects the cost of ducted air conditioning?Capacity, zones, outlets, roof access, storeys, duct reuse and the electrical supply all shape a ducted install. Here's how to compare quotes on the same basis.
Sources for the rules and local facts on this page
22 sources, with the date each was checked
- 1.Bureau of Meteorology: Mean number of days ≥ 30 °C 6.9 6.0 4.5 0.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.9 2.8 5.1 27.0 82 1943 2026 Mean number of days ≥ 35 °C 3.6 2.4 0.9 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.5 1.9 9.4 Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 2.Department of Energy, Environment and Climate Action (energy.vic.gov.au), page last updated 14/04/25: Victorians typically use more energy for heating than cooling, so look for a unit with a higher heating efficiency. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 3.Consumer Affairs Victoria: An energy efficient fixed heater must be one of the following: a non-ducted air conditioner or heat pump with a 2 star or above energy rating a gas space heater with a 2 star or above energy rating a ducted heating… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 4.Consumer Affairs Victoria: Definition: From 1 March 2027, ‘energy efficient fixed heater’ means: (a) an electric, non-portable, non-ducted air conditioner or heat pump capable of heating with a 2 star or above Greenhouse and Energy Minimum… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 5.Consumer Affairs Victoria: Definition: From 1 March 2027, energy efficient fixed cooling means: (a) a non-portable, non-ducted electric air conditioner or heat pump capable of cooling, with a GEMS 3-star or above cooling rating (for the climate… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 6.Consumer Affairs Victoria: Tip: A reverse-cycle air conditioner can satisfy both the heating and cooling standards. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 7.Department of Energy, Environment and Climate Action (Victoria): From 1 March 2027, if a gas hot water appliance breaks and cannot be repaired, it must be replaced with an electric alternative. No requirement to upgrade gas space heating or stovetop gas cooking to electric, however… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 8.YourHome (Australian Government): A reverse cycle air-conditioner is a type of heat pump that uses electricity to warm your home in winter and cool it in summer (refer to Heat pumps below). In heating mode, the system absorbs heat from the outside air… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 9.energy.gov.au (Australian Government, DCCEEW): The energy efficiency of reverse-cycle air conditioners on the Australian market ranges between 300% to 600% efficient. Air conditioners can achieve such high rates of energy efficiency because they do not use… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 10.Commonwealth of Australia (2019), 'The new zoned energy rating label for air conditioners—What installers and retailers need to know', hosted on energyrating.gov.au: Melbourne is in a black ‘COLD’ area—read the black Cold ratings. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 11.Energy Rating (GEMS Regulator / DCCEEW): In stores, it’s mandatory for the Zoned Energy Rating Label to be displayed on single-phase, non-ducted, and unitary or single-split air conditioners up to 30 kW. ... Where products are sold online, it’s not mandatory… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 12.Energy Safe Victoria: This means that if the manufacturer’s specifications require an air conditioner to be installed on a dedicated circuit or protected by a residual current device then they must be adhered to. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 13.Access Canberra Electrical Inspections (ACT Government), Electrical Fact Sheet, updated September 2019: Air-conditioning and heat pump systems incorporating a compressor shall be provided with an isolating switch (lockable) in accordance with Clause 2.3.2.2, installed adjacent to but not on the unit, which isolates all… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 14.Energy Safe Victoria: 'Prescribed' certificates are for electrical installation work that requires inspection by a Licensed Electrical inspector. This includes (but is not limited to): Consumer mains cables, main switchboard, meter box and… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 15.Energy Safe Victoria: This licence type only allows the disconnection and reconnection of ‘like for like’ equipment, for the purposes of repair, replacement or maintenance. The Restricted Electrical Worker’s licence does not allow a person… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 16.Australian Refrigeration Council (ARC): A Refrigerant Handling Licence must be held by any person who carries out work in relation to refrigeration and air conditioning (RAC) equipment. Carrying out work in relation to RAC equipment means to do anything with… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 17.Australian Refrigeration Council (ARC), Fact Sheet 13 (ARC5225, 11/22): ‘Topping-up’ a system before the system has been fully tested and all identified leaks repaired by any individual is illegal. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 18.Building and Plumbing Commission (Victorian Building Authority, trading as the Building and Plumbing Commission): Under Part 4 of the Plumbing Regulations 2018, Refrigerated Air-conditioning work is: The construction, installation, replacement, repair, alteration, maintenance, testing or commissioning of refrigerated… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 19.Energy Safe Victoria: Gas and electricity are inherently dangerous and it’s illegal and potentially fatal for unlicensed and unqualified people to undertake any gasfitting or electrical work. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 20.Solar Victoria (updated 20 November 2025): To heat a room, try setting the temperature between 18°C to 20°C. Every 1°C higher will add around 10% to your heating bill. Set your air conditioner thermostat for cooling between 24°C and 26°C for living areas – every… Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 21.Energy Safe Victoria: Locate your electricity box outside your home and check whether the safety switch has tripped. If it has tripped, reset the switch. If the switch won’t reset, call a licensed electrician. Accessed 30 September 2026.
- 22.Energy Safe Victoria: Electrical work isn’t a DIY job, even for small jobs such as changing power points or light switches. Accessed 30 September 2026.
