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Enquiries, dates & appointments
Each screen asks one thing, so it is quick on a phone and you only see questions that apply to your job. Most people finish in about two minutes. You can go back and change any answer, and you check everything on one screen before you send it.
No. The day, date and time window are your preferences. We review the work, location, access and current schedule, then contact you to agree an appointment. Your request confirmation is not a booking confirmation.
Yes. Choose the most relevant repair, replacement or servicing option and tell us how many units are involved. Include the system type, approximate age and what each unit is doing. If the units have different problems, explain that in your notes.
Use the not sure option where available. Describe the equipment and what you have noticed. If a model label is safely visible from ground level, you can note it; do not climb, remove covers or touch wiring to find information for the form.
You can request a morning or afternoon visit, or any time within our hours of 7am to 5:30pm, Monday to Saturday. Select a preferred date, ask for the earliest available appointment or say you are flexible. The team confirms the actual day and arrival arrangements directly.
The website shows our availability message and continues accepting detailed requests. Submitted enquiries are saved for the team to review. Please follow the current message for response expectations. If there is smoke, fire or immediate danger, get everyone out first rather than waiting for an online reply.
Yes. Enter your suburb and postcode in the enquiry. The public directory shows the areas currently open for enquiries; we will check your address and the proposed work before confirming whether a visit can be arranged.
The number and type of items, equipment selection, electrical capacity, mounting location, pipe or cable route, access and disposal of old equipment can all affect scope. We ask about those details so the conversation can focus on your actual property.
Yes. Tell us your relationship to the property and who can authorise the work. Add any tenant, building manager or owners corporation access arrangements. A request does not itself authorise chargeable work.
Choose the main job and describe the additional work in your notes. For example, mention that a replacement air conditioner is part of a kitchen renovation or that you are also planning an EV charger. We can discuss how the work fits together.
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Electrical Repairs & Fault Finding
Read the service guideUsually water is getting into something outside, like an outdoor power point, a garden light or a cable joint. We find which one and seal it or replace it.
A slight dip can be normal on a busy circuit. Noticeable dimming or flickering can point to a loose connection or an overloaded circuit, and that's worth testing.
Some faults only show up under certain conditions. We'll tell you what we've ruled out and what we'd do next. We won't guess and charge you for parts that weren't the problem.
Yes. A power point or switch plate that feels warm, or has brown marks around it, usually has a poor connection behind it. Stop using it and get it looked at.
Power Outages & Loss of Power
Read the service guideCommon reasons are an outage in your street, a tripped safety switch, a breaker tripping on an overloaded circuit, a faulty appliance, loose or damaged wiring, a failed switchboard part, storm damage, an underground cable fault, or an old installation wearing out.
Your house is split into circuits. If one breaker or safety switch trips, only the rooms on that circuit lose power. It can also be a loose connection or a failed breaker, which needs testing to find.
If the street is out, call your distributor. If it's only your home, or part of it, call an electrician.
If the neighbours notice it too, it's usually the network. If it's only your house, it can be a loose connection at the switchboard or on the mains, and that should be checked soon.
Leave a repeatedly tripping circuit off and arrange an assessment. Keep away from damaged equipment and tell us about burning smells, shocks or water, even if other circuits appear to work normally.
Safety Switch (RCD) Installation & Testing
Read the service guideOpen the switchboard door, but never remove any covers, and look for switches with a test button, often marked T or RCD. If you only see fuses or breakers with no test button, you probably don't have any.
It can, but then a single fault blacks out everything, fridge included. Splitting circuits across two or more safety switches, or using RCBOs, means a fault only takes out the part of the house it's on.
Rarely. Nuisance tripping usually has a cause, such as moisture, a faulty appliance or too many appliances on the one switch each leaking a little. Old safety switches can also fail. Testing tells us which it is.
Victoria's rental minimum standards include electrical safety requirements. Check the current rules with Consumer Affairs Victoria, and we can test what's there and fit what's needed.
Switchboard Upgrades
Read the service guideNot always. If there's space and the supply can handle it, a new circuit can go into the existing board. If the board is full or still on fuses, an upgrade usually makes sense. We'll look before recommending anything.
The switchboard holds your breakers and safety switches. The mains is the cable bringing power to that board. Older homes, including plenty built in the 1970s, sometimes need both before adding big loads.
Rewireable fuses aren't automatically dangerous, but they give less protection than modern breakers and usually come with no safety switches. Some have also been rewired with the wrong fuse wire over the years, which removes the protection altogether.
Yes. We've tidied switchboards after solar and battery installs, re-dressed the cabling and labelled every circuit properly.
Yes. Our work comes with a lifetime workmanship guarantee, and it's done by a licensed electrician (REC 38187) to Australian Standards.
Smoke Alarm Installation
Read the service guidePhotoelectric alarms are the type Australian fire services recommend for homes. They're better at picking up smouldering fires and less likely to go off when you're cooking.
Usually the backup battery is low. On newer alarms with a sealed lithium battery, the whole alarm needs replacing. Chirping can also mean the alarm has reached the end of its life.
For a hardwired alarm, yes, because it's connected to 240 volt wiring. A battery-only alarm can be swapped by anyone.
Yes. Wireless interconnected alarms talk to each other, so they all sound together without new cable between them.
Surge Protection
Read the service guideThey're a good second layer for expensive electronics, especially anything connected to both power and a data line. The switchboard device handles the bigger spikes coming into the house.
Solar inverters are electronic and connected to the grid, so they're exposed to the same spikes as everything else. Many people protect them along with the rest of the house.
No. Flickering is usually a loose connection or a load issue, and it's worth getting that tested separately.
Sometimes. If the board is full or still on fuses, it's better done as part of a switchboard upgrade.
Home Rewiring & Renovations
Read the service guideUsually, yes. We work through the house in sections and get power back on each evening where we can. We'll talk through how it will work for your home before starting.
Age alone doesn't decide it. Old cable types, ceramic fuses, frequent tripping and warm power points are signs. Testing the insulation on each circuit gives a proper answer.
Yes. We do the electrical rough-in and fit-off around the building schedule. Because we also do heating and cooling, the air conditioning can be planned at the same time.
Some access holes are usually needed in older homes. We use roof and underfloor space wherever we can and keep openings small.
Yes. Our electrical licence is REC 38187, all work is done to Australian Standards, and it comes with our lifetime workmanship guarantee.
EV Charger Installation
Read the service guideYou can with the lead that came with the car, but it's slow and the power point runs at a heavy load for hours. If you plan to charge that way regularly, have the circuit checked first.
It can if everything runs at once on a small supply. Many chargers have load management that slows charging when the house is using a lot of power, and we set that up where it's needed.
Some chargers can charge from surplus solar. It depends on the charger and your inverter, so tell us what you have.
Yes, as long as it's rated for outdoor use and mounted in a sensible spot. We'll talk through the location with you.
LED Lighting Upgrades
Read the service guideSometimes, if the transformer is compatible. Often the result flickers or fails early. Replacing the whole fitting usually works better and gets you an IC-rated light.
Usually an incompatible dimmer or driver, or a loose connection. If it's happening across the house, get it tested.
Not always. We look for fittings that cover the existing cut-outs, and tell you beforehand if any holes need patching.
Yes. We'll suggest spacing that gives even light across the room rather than a grid of holes.
Outdoor & Garden Lighting
Read the service guideYes. It's usually water in a fitting or a cable joint. We find which one, then repair or replace it.
Yes. Timers, dusk-to-dawn sensors, motion sensors or a separate switch inside all work.
Often. We look for the shortest cable runs and follow existing paths, walls and edges where we can.
They're fine as accents. For paths and steps you rely on, hardwired lighting is brighter and works every night regardless of the weather.
Power Point Installation & Upgrades
Read the service guideUsually. We run cable through the roof or under the floor and drop it down inside the wall. Solid brick walls may need a chase or surface conduit.
They're handy beside beds, benches and desks. Go for ones with USB-C if you have newer phones or laptops.
Yes. Stop using it. A loose or sparking outlet usually has worn contacts or a bad connection and should be replaced.
Yes, with a weatherproof cover and safety switch protection. They're useful for barbecues, pumps and garden tools.
Ceiling Fan Installation
Read the service guideUsually, yes. We check the joist position and cabling, and add a brace if the light point isn't near a joist.
Unbalanced or bent blades, or a loose mount. We can rebalance it or fix the mounting.
Yes, with the right mounting kit. Check that the fan you like supports raked ceilings.
Yes, on a low speed. Reverse mode pushes warm air near the ceiling back down without making a breeze.
Oven & Cooktop Installation
Read the service guideA hardwired oven or cooktop has to be connected by a licensed electrician. Some ovens come with a plug, and those only need a suitable power point.
Often, but not always. If the board is old or full, it may need room made or an upgrade first.
Yes. They usually go in together, on separate circuits if the appliances call for it.
We disconnect it and remove it from the cabinetry. Ask about taking it away when you book.
Split System Air Conditioning
Read the service guideOften, yes. Send us the model and the room details first so we can check it suits the space and that we can stand behind the install.
Yes. Most split systems need a dedicated circuit and an outdoor isolator. We do both, so you don't need a separate electrician.
Yes. We remove the old unit, check whether any existing pipework and brackets are worth reusing, and install the new one.
Somewhere with clear airflow, close to the indoor head, and not under a bedroom window, yours or your neighbour's. We'll talk it through on site.
Mainly Mitsubishi Electric and Fujitsu. Tell us if you have a preference and we'll quote on it.
Ducted Reverse Cycle Air Conditioning
Read the service guideYes. Many homes swap gas ducted heating for reverse cycle so they get cooling too. Sometimes parts of the existing ductwork can be reused, and we'll tell you honestly if they can't.
The indoor unit is in the roof, so inside you mostly hear air through the vents. The outdoor unit makes some noise, which is why we think about where it sits.
With zoning, yes. Each zone can be switched on or off from the controller, and some systems can be run from your phone.
Yes. The layout is different, sometimes with two systems or careful duct routing, so it's worth a site visit before a quote.
Multi-Head, Bulkhead & Floor Standing Systems
Read the service guideIt depends on the outdoor unit. Many run two to five indoor units. We match the outdoor unit to the rooms you want covered.
Yes. Each indoor head on a multi-head has its own controller. They do all need to be in the same mode, heating or cooling, at the same time.
Sometimes, if there's a hallway or room where the ceiling can be lowered or boxed in. We'd need to see it first.
Rooms with floor-to-ceiling glass, raked ceilings or no suitable wall space up high. It also suits people who mostly want heating.
Evaporative Cooling
Read the service guideUsually stagnant water in the tank or old pads. A service with a drain, clean and new pads normally fixes it.
That's how evaporative cooling works. It relies on dry air to evaporate water. On muggy days it can only do so much.
It depends on how you use it. Ducted reverse cycle cools on humid days and heats in winter, but costs more to run and install. We'll talk you through both.
Once a year, ideally in spring before the heat starts.
Gas Ducted Heating
Read the service guideOften the burner isn't lighting, from an ignition, flame sensor or gas supply fault. It needs a technician to check it safely.
Energy Safe Victoria recommends at least every two years by a qualified gasfitter. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and any more frequent interval recommended for the appliance's condition and use.
Yes. Rheem is one of the brands we work with. We'll check your existing ductwork and flue before quoting.
It's worth considering, since you get cooling too. We can quote both options so you can compare.
Heat Pump Heating
Read the service guideYes. Reverse cycle systems work less efficiently in very cold weather, but current units handle Melbourne conditions well when they're sized properly for the room.
Yes. A reverse cycle air conditioner is a heat pump that can run in either direction, heating in winter and cooling in summer.
Often, yes. We look at the rooms you heat now, the insulation and your switchboard, then explain whether wall splits, a multi-head or a ducted system makes more sense.
Most systems need a dedicated circuit and an isolator. We install both, and check your switchboard can take the load.
Heating & Cooling Servicing
Read the service guideOnce a year for most homes. More often if it runs a lot, or if you have pets or live near a main road.
Yes, including Mitsubishi Electric, Fujitsu and Rheem, along with most other common brands.
Small things, yes, on the spot. For anything bigger, we explain it and give you a price before doing the work.
Yes. Tell us what you have when you book and we'll allow enough time.
Breakdown Repairs & Fault Finding
Read the service guideUsually a blocked or poorly sloped drain, or a dirty filter causing ice on the coil. Turn it off and send us the details.
Could be a dirty filter, a failed fan, low refrigerant from a leak, or a compressor fault. We test each one.
Sometimes. If the repair is major and the unit is old, a replacement can make more sense. We'll give you both options honestly.
We work Monday to Saturday, 7am to 5:30pm. Send us the brand, the symptoms and your suburb, and we'll confirm a time that suits.
Most common brands, including Mitsubishi Electric, Fujitsu and Rheem.
Refrigerant Leak Detection & Re-Gassing
Read the service guideIt blows air that's not as cold or warm as it used to, runs for longer, or you see ice on the pipes or outdoor unit.
It shouldn't, unless there's a leak. A healthy system keeps its charge for its whole life.
Depends on the refrigerant. Some older types are no longer easy to get, and a replacement may be the better option. We'll check the label.
The risk depends on the refrigerant, leak and location. Stop using a system with a suspected leak, follow the manufacturer's safety advice and arrange qualified assessment. Avoid opening connections or trying to recharge it yourself.
Smart Thermostats & Zone Control
Read the service guideOften, yes. It depends on the unit and the duct layout. We'll check on site.
Heating and cooling fewer rooms uses less energy, so usually yes, as long as you use the zones.
Most current controllers support app control. We set it up and show you how it works.
Most homes do well with two to four, for example living areas, bedrooms and a study.
Ductwork Repairs & Airflow
Read the service guideUsually a disconnected, crushed or overly long duct to that room. Sometimes the outlet is in the wrong spot.
Yes, if the unit is in good shape. We'll check it while we're up there.
It varies with the material and conditions in the roof. Older ducts tend to lose insulation and become brittle.
Often it's a good time to, especially if they're old or poorly laid. We'll tell you what we find.
Security Lights & Floodlight Cameras
Read the service guideSend the exact model and mounting location first. Battery, plug-in and hardwired products have different installation requirements.
Often, provided the circuit, mounting position and Wi-Fi coverage suit it. A good lighting position is not automatically a good camera angle.
Moving vegetation, passing traffic, heat sources or settings can be involved. We check the location and controls before recommending a new fitting.
Many products offer an override or app control, but the method depends on the model. We demonstrate the available settings at handover.
LED Downlight Installation
Read the service guideUsually, but we inspect the cut-outs, transformer arrangement and wiring first. Replacement may include more than just changing a globe.
It depends on room dimensions, ceiling height, the fitting’s output and beam angle, and whether the room also has pendants or lamps.
Only if the products are compatible. Send the dimmer and light models if you have them; otherwise we check on site.
Often, although wiring between floors can require a different cable route or small access openings. We explain the finish and any patching before work starts.
Pendant & Feature Lighting
Read the service guideYes, subject to its suitability, electrical requirements and the available mounting support. Please send the product details before booking.
Usually. Ceiling access determines how the cable can be moved and whether patching will be needed.
We consider the fixture, room height, furniture below and manufacturer instructions, then agree a comfortable height with you on site.
Often. We check the circuit, dimmer capacity and cable layout and discuss whether separate control would be more useful.
Induction Cooktop Installation
Read the service guidePossibly, but cable capacity and protection must suit the new model. We assess the installation instead of assuming the old supply is adequate.
Not necessarily. Many domestic induction cooktops have single-phase connection options, but the exact model and your available supply determine the answer. If the supply is too small, we can explain whether a mains upgrade or a move to three phase makes sense.
The gas connection must be disconnected and made safe by an appropriately licensed gasfitter. We can discuss the installation sequence when quoting the electrical work.
Check the cooktop manufacturer’s cookware guidance. Magnetic bases are a useful initial indicator, but pan size and construction also affect performance.
Dedicated Appliance Circuits
Read the service guideNo. The appliance requirements and the existing installation determine that. We assess the load and protection before recommending new wiring.
We can assess it. Distance, underground access, the garage use and existing supply all affect the required work.
There will usually be an agreed interruption for switchboard work. We explain the likely duration and what needs to be turned off beforehand.
Often, if the final model and position are confirmed. Changes to the appliance later can change its supply requirements.
Home & Rental Electrical Safety Checks
Read the service guideA rental safety check has a defined inspection and testing scope. A quick look at the switchboard or a test of portable appliances is not an equivalent service.
Some tests require an interruption. We agree the access and timing and discuss equipment that needs special consideration.
The quote sets out what the check includes. Any remedial work is explained and priced, with immediate hazards handled as a priority.
A previous safety report, property address, access contact, the number of buildings and any details of recent alterations or known faults.
Split System Cleaning & Servicing
Read the service guideNo. Filter cleaning is useful routine care, but it does not check the drain, internal fan, coil, electrical condition or overall performance.
It may help when dirt or drainage is involved, but the source needs to be assessed. We do not promise that every smell can be solved by a standard clean.
Yes. Send the number of units, model details and locations so enough time and access can be allowed.
Not as a routine step. A sealed system should not require regular topping up; suspected low charge needs diagnosis and leak investigation.
Split System Repairs
Read the service guideDrain restrictions, installation issues or coil icing are among the possibilities. Switch it off to limit damage and arrange an assessment.
Control settings, normal defrost behaviour and actual faults can look similar. Note any code and how long it stops so we can investigate.
We assess most common domestic systems. The model, age and availability of manufacturer parts affect what can be repaired.
Sometimes. A modest repair on an otherwise sound system is different from a major compressor or coil failure. We explain both the cost and the uncertainty.
Split System Replacement
Read the service guideOnly when their specification, condition and cleanliness meet the new manufacturer’s requirements. Reuse is assessed, not assumed.
It is a starting point, not a sizing assessment. Insulation, glazing, room use and whether the old unit performed well all matter.
Possibly, if the new unit covers a different area. Send a clear photo so we can discuss the likely finish.
The quote specifies removal, handling of the old system and any changes to brackets, pipework or electrical supply.
Ducted Air Conditioning Servicing
Read the service guideThe duct, outlet, damper or layout for that room may be involved. It does not automatically mean the whole air conditioner needs replacing.
Do not assume the system can run with only a small number open. Minimum airflow and zoning requirements depend on the equipment and design.
No. Routine servicing, duct repairs and specialist duct cleaning are different scopes. We explain what your system actually needs.
We need to assess safe access. Tell us about low clearance, difficult hatches or previous access problems before booking.
Evaporative Cooler Servicing
Read the service guidePads, stagnant water or other contamination may be involved. We inspect the source and avoid assuming a standard clean will solve every odour.
An evaporative system needs a designed exit path for air. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and ask for advice specific to your home.
Evaporative performance is affected by humidity. Poor performance in those conditions does not necessarily indicate a fault.
If the correct pads are available and included in the quote. Send the model in advance because pad sizes and arrangements vary.
Gas Ducted Heater Servicing
Read the service guideEnergy Safe Victoria recommends at least every two years by a qualified gasfitter. Rental safety requirements and the manufacturer’s instructions should also be checked.
No. Correct heating output does not rule out a combustion, flue or ventilation problem. Safety needs the appropriate professional checks.
An electrical licence alone does not authorise gas appliance service work. The person doing that work must hold the appropriate gasfitting qualification and endorsement.
Yes. A useful comparison includes the repair, age and condition of the heater, the home’s heating needs, electrical capacity and whether existing ducts are suitable.
Burning Smell from Power Points or Switchboard
Read the service guideNot for long. It usually fades because the load came off, not because anything was fixed. Leave that circuit off until it's checked.
Usually, if the smell was on one circuit and that breaker is off. If it came from the board, or you can't tell which circuit, turn the main switch off if it's safe to reach and leave it off.
Many switches and points, older ones especially, are moulded from heat-set plastics that give off a fishy, ammonia-like smell when they cook.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says electrical work isn't a DIY job, even small jobs like changing power points or light switches. And a new faceplate won't fix a cooked cable end.
If there's no smoke or flame, switch off at the board if it's safe and contact an electrician. For smoke, flame, or a smell that keeps getting stronger with the power off, get everyone out of the house straight away.
Sparking Power Points & Switches
Read the service guideA faint flick can happen if the switch is on and the appliance draws power as the pins touch. Switching off first stops it. A loud crack, a spark every time or a marked plate is not normal.
It can be. If it's smoking, crackling, melting or hot, stop using it and switch that circuit off at the board if it's safe, then contact us. If there's smoke or fire, get everyone out.
Better not. Each arc pits and blackens the contacts, making the next one more likely. Leave it unused until it's checked, with the circuit off if the plate is marked or warm.
A breaker reacts to too much current, and a safety switch to current leaking to earth. A loose terminal can cook one small spot while the current stays normal and nothing leaks, so neither trips.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says electrical work isn't a DIY job, even changing a power point or light switch. For a loose, cracked or broken point, it says not to touch it or try to repair it, and to have a licensed electrician replace it.
Flickering & Dimming Lights
Read the service guideA small current still gets through, from an illuminated or smart switch, a dimmer not made for LEDs or a long cable run. Old wiring that switches the neutral, not the active, does it too. That leaves the fitting live and needs fixing.
Sometimes. A worn driver is a nuisance. A loose connection is a joint heating up, which damages cable and fittings over time. Flicker with warmth, buzzing or a smell needs testing.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says surge diverters capture voltage spikes, such as from a lightning strike, before they reach equipment. They won't fix a loose connection or a mismatched dimmer.
We still test connections, measure voltage under load and check the dimmer suits the drivers. Then we tell you what's been ruled out, rather than guessing at parts.
Not always. One flickering downlight may only need a new driver. A room of mixed makes on an old dimmer usually needs a matched set, and you get the price for each option first.
Power Point Not Working
Read the service guideSometimes. If the appliance works in another room, the fault is in the point or its circuit; if it's dead everywhere, it's the appliance. Don't try it in a point that's warm, marked or loose.
Breakers and safety switches react to overload, short circuits and current leaking to earth. A terminal that has let go, or a switch that won't close, just stops the power, so they have nothing to detect.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says electrical work isn't a DIY job, even changing power points, and it's illegal for unlicensed people. A new outlet often wouldn't fix it anyway if the loose terminal is at the point before.
Keep heaters and kettles off that circuit until it's checked, especially the working point nearest the dead ones, where a loose terminal can overheat under load.
Yes, even for one remade terminal. Repair is electrical installation work under the Electricity Safety Act 1998, and a licensed electrician must provide a Certificate of Electrical Safety for it. Power points are non-prescribed work, with your copy due within 30 days.
Circuit Breaker Keeps Tripping
Read the service guideThe trip is the protection working. The risk is the cause: every reset pushes current back through a loose connection, damaged cable or faulty appliance.
Together they can draw more than that circuit's breaker allows. Run them at different times for now. If that's a daily juggle, a separate circuit for the heater fixes it.
Something usually is: a fridge cycling, a pool pump on a timer or an electric hot water service coming on at off-peak. Cool nights also bring condensation into outdoor fittings.
The fault is still there: a short on the circuit or in something plugged in, or a failed breaker. Leave it down and don't force it.
No. A power board adds outlets, not capacity. Everything on it still draws through one point on the same circuit.
Power Out in Part of the House
Read the service guideKettles, dishwashers, washing machines and outdoor points are common trip causes, because leakage usually starts at heating elements and moisture. Which other rooms go dark depends on how your board is grouped.
Check the rooms that still have power. Dull or flickering lights there can mean a supply fault, which is one for your distributor. If they look normal, the fault is most likely in your home and one for us.
Ovens, cooktops and air conditioners usually have their own circuits, sometimes on a different safety switch, or none on older boards. So the oven can run while the kitchen points are dead, and that tells us where to start.
Usually a loose connection heating and cooling, or a device on its way out. It gets worse, not better, so have it checked before it damages the board.
Not necessarily. Newer homes in Point Cook and Tarneit lose part of their power too, usually through a faulty appliance. Energy Safe Victoria says wiring in a house built more than 30 years ago should be checked.
Air Conditioner Not Cooling
Read the service guideNot if there's ice or the outdoor unit is labouring. That strains the compressor, the part you least want to replace.
Only if the cause is dirt. Cleaning fixes clogged filters and coils, not a failed part or a leak.
Extreme heat, or a clogged or boxed-in coil, pushes pressures up until the unit stops the compressor to protect itself. Keep the space around it clear.
The Victorian Government suggests 24 to 26 °C for cooling living areas, and says each degree lower adds around 10% to running costs. Setting it lower usually won't cool the room any faster.
On a ducted system, a stuck zone motor or a crushed or loose duct in the roof starves particular rooms. On a multi-head, one warm head points to that head's own valve, sensor or pipe run.
Air Conditioner Leaking Water
Read the service guideCheck the timing. Condensate only shows while the unit cools or soon after. Water after rain with the system off points to the pipe hole or the roof. We can reseal the pipe hole; roof leaks need a roofer.
In heating the indoor coil is warm and makes little or no condensate. Winter water inside usually comes from outside, most often rain running in along the pipes.
Rarely. Refrigerant only matters when a low charge ices the coil, and then the leak is fixed before any recharge.
Humid air puts more water on the coil. A partly blocked or poorly sloped drain copes on dry days, then overflows when the flow picks up.
A hose may have been knocked, a filter left unseated or the head nudged off level. New drains with too little fall show up in the first hot spell.
Heater Not Working
Read the service guideRarely. Usually no power is reaching it or the controller has failed. Reset a tripped safety switch once; if that doesn’t help, the supply, controller and wiring need testing.
Probably not. When every gas appliance stops at once, the supply is the likely cause, so call the faults number on your gas bill.
No. If it locks out again after one restart from the controller, leave it off. A lockout means a safety check failed, and restarting won’t fix the part behind it.
Not always. Heating output drops as the outdoor air gets colder, so a tightly sized system can lag. Barely warm air in the afternoon, or ice that never clears, points to a fault.
Start with your rental provider or agent. They must organise and pay for repairs that aren’t the renter’s fault. Tell them any code on the controller.
Fuse Box Replacement
Read the service guideFuses that never blow aren't proof the board is protecting you. Energy Safe Victoria lists old switchboards, particularly those without a safety switch, as a sign wiring may be faulty. We'll give you an honest read on yours.
Not necessarily. A new board doesn't replace the cables in your walls, but our testing shows how each circuit is holding up. Energy Safe Victoria suggests a wiring check for any house over 30 years old.
Most of a working day for a typical house. The new board can't be switched on until an inspector has checked it, so we plan the two together.
Raise it with your rental provider or agent. A board without circuit breakers and safety switches doesn't meet the rental minimum standard, and Consumer Affairs Victoria lists that as an urgent repair.
Yes, if we plan for it. Tell us what's coming and we'll leave spare positions. Supply capacity is covered on our switchboard capacity upgrade page.
Switchboard Upgrade for Air Conditioning, EV or Induction
Read the service guideNot always. With a spare space, suitable protection and supply to spare, the circuit goes on your existing board. A full board, a fuse board or a stretched supply means something changes first.
It makes sense when your loads call for it: a large ducted system, more than one EV charger, a 22 kW charger or a workshop with heavy machines. For many homes a larger single-phase supply is enough, so we total up what you're adding and talk through both before you decide.
Sometimes, if the charger is what tips the house over. It slows charging while the oven or heating is on, but it can't hold back anything else, so we check the numbers first.
Partly. A photo shows free spaces, the main switch and safety switches, but not the consumer mains, so the supply is checked on site.
It depends on the fix. A spare-space job means a short outage. Energy Safe Victoria says a replaced main switchboard stays off until a licensed electrical inspector has inspected it, so we plan the inspection into the job.
Safety Switch (RCD) Testing
Read the service guideEnergy Safe Victoria's written guidance says to press the test button every three months, and its how-to video says to check them regularly, every year. We'd go with three months. Have the trip times measured at least once, and again when a property changes hands.
Yes, in short bursts. Each trip cuts every circuit on that safety switch until it's reset, so clocks and modems may need restarting. Tell us about medical equipment beforehand.
Yes. An RCBO is a circuit breaker and safety switch in one, protecting a single circuit, and it's timed the same way.
We confirm it's the device and not the circuit, then price the replacement before doing anything. Replacing it is electrical installation work, so you get a Certificate of Electrical Safety.
No. The two-yearly rental check covers all switchboards, wiring and fittings and must follow section 4 of AS/NZS 3019:2022. Safety switch testing is much narrower, so it can't stand in for that check.
Faulty Safety Switch Replacement
Read the service guideWarn the household, then press its test button. It should trip off and cut the power. If it doesn’t, it may have failed and a licensed electrician needs to look at it.
Not necessarily. A healthy switch often trips straight back off because one of its circuits is leaking to earth. Testing the switch with its circuits disconnected tells us which it is.
Yes. Nothing on that switch will cut out if current leaks to earth, possibly through someone. Energy Safe Victoria says to call a licensed electrician immediately when the test button doesn’t cut the power.
Not for the Type AC rule alone. Energy Safe Victoria says existing Type AC switches installed, tested and certified before 1 May 2023 don’t have to be replaced. We can test them while we’re there.
Tell your rental provider or agent in writing. Consumer Affairs Victoria says the rental provider must organise and pay for repairs that aren’t the renter’s fault.
Hardwired Smoke Alarm Installation
Read the service guideNo. Consumer Affairs Victoria says a hard-wired smoke alarm must be installed by a qualified electrician. Changing its battery is the part anyone can do.
Not in a home built after 1 August 1997, which must have 240V alarms with a backup battery. False alarms usually mean an ageing sensor or a spot too near steam or cooking, and replacing or moving the alarm fixes that.
The chirp comes from the backup battery. Its voltage drops as the house cools overnight, so a weak one often warns in the early hours. If a fresh battery doesn’t stop it, the alarm needs checking.
Usually. The others from the same install are rarely far behind, and linked alarms have to be compatible. One visit for the set beats chasing one chirp at a time.
Yes, on the backup battery. That’s why a low-battery chirp on a mains alarm still matters.
Interconnected Smoke Alarms
Read the service guideYes, if the home was built, largely renovated or extended after 1 May 2014, going by Fire Rescue Victoria's summary. For older homes it depends on the home's history, so we check on site. Linking is worth doing either way.
Sometimes. If they're hardwired, from a range that links and well inside their service life, we may add the link or a wireless module. Mixed brands, or alarms near ten years old, are usually replaced as a set.
Both are dependable when installed properly. A cable can't lose signal but needs a path to every alarm; radio needs each alarm range-tested where it will live. Many double-storey homes end up with hardwired alarms linked by radio.
Fire Rescue Victoria says to test monthly by pressing and holding the test button until the alarm beeps three times. Every other alarm should sound too. Start from a different alarm each month, and tell us if one stays quiet.
Because the link is working. The fix is usually moving the nearest alarm away from the cooktop or bathroom door, or swapping an older ionisation alarm for a photoelectric one from the same range.
Smoke Alarms for Rental Properties
Read the service guideThe rental provider, usually through their agent. Consumer Affairs Victoria says the provider must make sure every alarm is correctly installed, working, fitted with batteries and tested at least once every 12 months.
No. Consumer Affairs Victoria lists a smoke alarm that isn't working as an urgent repair, and rental providers must make urgent repairs immediately. The provider pays unless the renter caused the problem.
Change the battery if it takes a replaceable one. If it still chirps, or the battery is sealed in, tell the agent or provider in writing. If they don't respond to an urgent repair, Consumer Affairs Victoria says you can organise and pay for it up to a set cost limit and be paid back within 7 days. A hardwired alarm still has to be fitted by a qualified electrician.
The Building and Plumbing Commission says to follow the manufacturer's specifications, generally after ten years. New alarms carry an expiry date under the battery, and we put each date on the record so the next check shows what's coming due.
Yes. We're a licensed electrical contractor (REC 38187), so in a year when both are due, one entry arrangement with the renter covers both. Each check gets its own record.
Rental Electrical Safety Check
Read the service guideIf there has been no check in the two years before the renter moves in, Consumer Affairs Victoria says one must be done as soon as possible. It's easiest while the house is empty.
Not unless they're a licensed electrician. The check must be done by a licensed or registered electrician working for a Registered Electrical Contractor. Total Comfort is a licensed electrical contractor (REC 38187).
Not necessarily, if the agent can get us into every room, the switchboard and any outbuildings. Clocks and timers may need resetting afterwards.
Anything dangerous is made safe on the visit, usually by isolating the circuit, and we tell you or your agent before leaving. The rest is priced on the record, and nothing is repaired until you approve it.
The rental provider, unless the renter caused the problem. Rental providers are also responsible for engaging an electrician to meet the electrical safety standard.
Pre-Purchase Electrical Inspection
Read the service guideBefore you’re committed, so the findings can still shape your offer. For an auction, that means before auction day. For a private sale, ask your conveyancer how to fit it around the contract.
A building inspector may flag an old board, but a general building inspection isn't an electrical assessment. Energy Safe Victoria says only an A grade electrician is qualified to inspect household wiring.
Not on its own. Type AC safety switches can no longer be installed, but Energy Safe Victoria says existing ones installed, tested and certified before 1 May 2023 don't have to be replaced. We note them in the report.
Rarely on its own, but budget for a new board. A replacement main switchboard needs safety switches on all final sub-circuits, and stays off until a licensed electrical inspector has checked it.
The report explains what each fix involves and how urgent it is. For firm prices, we give free, no-obligation quotes.
Old Wiring Replacement
Read the service guideNot always. Original lighting circuits often fail while later power circuits test fine. If most of it has failed, our home rewiring page covers a full rewire.
Working and safe aren't the same. Rubber can crumble out of sight until a join overheats. Energy Safe Victoria says fire brigades respond to more than 300 domestic electrical fires each year, many caused by old wiring that has degraded.
It helps, but it's no substitute. A safety switch reacts to current leaking to earth, not a loose join overheating, and Energy Safe Victoria says safety switches may not protect all wiring.
Before you move in. Energy Safe Victoria says that when buying a home built before the 1980s, it's imperative the wiring is checked by a licensed electrical inspector or registered electrical contractor first.
Usually, yes. We replace one circuit at a time and get power back on each evening where we can.
Renovation & Extension Electrical
Read the service guideTell us before the plasterer comes. With the frame open, moving a point is a small job. After sheeting it means cutting and patching, and either way we price the change first.
Usually. We make the kitchen circuits safe and, where the wiring allows, leave a point live elsewhere for the fridge. Any switchboard outage is booked ahead.
Yes, or you can book us directly. Energy Safe Victoria says anyone planning electrical installation work must engage a registered electrical contractor. We're a licensed electrical contractor (REC 38187).
Not always. With spare spaces and enough supply, new circuits go straight on. Going all-electric is when the board and supply most often need a look, and we check both before quoting.
Not the hard-wired ones. Consumer Affairs Victoria says a hard-wired smoke alarm must be installed by a qualified electrician, so we wire them at rough-in and fit them at fit-off.
New Home Electrical Fit-Off
Read the service guideOften, yes. We can go through the builder’s electrical plan with you before you sign off, and add work once you have the keys. Before handover, your building contract decides whether your own trades can go on site.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says unlicensed electrical work is illegal and potentially fatal, and anyone planning electrical installation work must engage a registered electrical contractor. We’re a licensed electrical contractor (REC 38187).
There’s no set number. Count what plugs in where: bedsides, the desk, the TV wall, bench appliances and the garage. Adding a point at rough-in is a far smaller job than after plaster.
Yes. Tell us what they are before rough-in so the right mounting goes in, and have them on site for fit-off. We check each one suits its spot, such as a bathroom or an insulated ceiling.
Two kinds. The consumer mains, main switchboard, meter box and main earthing are prescribed work, checked by a licensed electrical inspector. For non-prescribed work such as lights, power points, air conditioning and hot water, Energy Safe Victoria says you should get a copy within 30 days.
LED Strip Lighting
Read the service guideNo. Hardwiring a driver, adding a switch or putting in a point is licensed electrical installation work. For a plug-in kit, we can fit a concealed power point so the lead stays out of the cavity.
The LEDs last many years if they run cool. Drivers usually go first, so we use aluminium channel and fit the driver where it can be swapped easily.
Yes, with sealed strip suited to the spot and the driver kept away from water. How close it can sit to a bath or shower depends on the position, so ask before you buy.
Sometimes, if both drivers suit the dimmer. Its own switch is usually better, so a soft glow can stay on by itself late at night.
It works with sealed strip, a dry spot for the driver and joins kept out of the rain. Path and garden lighting sits on our garden lighting page.
Dimmers & Smart Lighting Switches
Read the service guideOnly if their drivers are dimmable, and only smoothly with the right dimmer. We check before quoting and tell you which fittings won't dim.
Good ones still switch by hand and keep running schedules. Usually only remote and voice control stop. We check a model's offline behaviour before recommending it.
No. A light dimmer on a fan motor can make it hum, run hot and fail. Fans need a speed controller made for them.
Yes. Most smart ranges pair a main mechanism with a matching secondary, and some need different cable between them. We check the two-way wiring before pricing.
Send us the product details first. We check they suit Australian plates and wiring and your fittings, and whether they need a neutral.
Sensor Lights
Read the service guideUsually. If the fitting is outdoor-rated and sound, a separate sensor head can switch it. If it’s tired or letting water in, a new sensor fitting is neater.
Most sensor lights have a manual override, often by switching the wall switch off and on quickly. It varies by model, so we show you at handover.
Not always. The daylight dial may be set too high or the override left on. If neither explains it, the sensor may have failed on, and we test it before suggesting a replacement.
For a shed or back corner they can do the job, but they rely on sun and a battery, both weakest in winter. For the front door and drive, hardwired is more dependable.
Yes, when the sensor suits the load. Some cheaper sensors let small LED loads glow or flicker when off, so we check the pairing or fit a light with the LEDs and sensor built in.
USB Power Points
Read the service guideUsually. It connects to the same cable once we've checked there's room behind the plate for the deeper mechanism.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says electrical work isn't a DIY job, even changing power points, and it's illegal for unlicensed people to do it.
Only if its USB-C port is rated at or above your laptop's own charger. Below that, the laptop charges slowly, or not at all while it's in use.
On most models the charger is built in, so the whole outlet is replaced. The cable behind it is normally reused.
The fixed outlets belong to the property, so ask the owner or agent first. If not, a plug-in multi-port charger does the job without touching the wiring.
Outdoor Power Points
Read the service guideWe wouldn't. Wind drives rain under most patio roofs, and hosing, dew and insects reach a covered wall too.
Yes. Energy Safe Victoria's guidance on the Wiring Rules says every final sub-circuit in a home must be protected by one. A safety switch has 30mA printed on it and turns the power off within 0.03 of a second when it detects a problem.
Water is getting into the point, an outside light or a buried joint. The safety switch is doing its job. Reset it once, and if it trips again, leave it off and have the wet fitting found.
An ordinary point on a shared circuit isn't made for hours of heavy charging every night. For regular charging, a charger on its own circuit is the proper answer.
Yes. Energy Safe Victoria says a licensed electrician must provide a Certificate of Electrical Safety whenever they complete electrical installation work. Power points are non-prescribed work, with your copy due within 30 days.
Bathroom Exhaust Fans
Read the service guideNo. Wet air condenses on cold roof timber and insulation and can lead to hidden mould. A sound existing fan can often be ducted outside without replacing it.
It depends on the room’s size and the duct’s length and bends, not the grille. We choose a fan for the duct run it will actually have.
Usually condensation. Steam cools in a duct crossing a cold roof and runs back to the fan. A shorter run, insulated duct and a fall toward the outlet normally fix it.
A window helps in summer, but few people open one on a cold winter morning. A fan works with the window shut.
No. Energy Safe Victoria says electrical work isn’t a DIY job, even small jobs such as changing light switches, and that unlicensed electrical work is illegal and potentially fatal.
Rangehood Installation
Read the service guideIf a suitable point is already where the manual wants it, the job is mostly mounting and ducting. A new or moved point, or a hardwired connection, is licensed electrical work.
It shouldn't. Steam condenses on the timbers and insulation, grease builds up and the smell drifts back. We take the duct all the way outside.
Usually, if the new hood fits, the point is in the right place and the old duct is the right size and reaches outside.
Yes. Induction puts less heat into the room than gas, but pots still throw off steam, grease and smells.
Yes. It needs solid fixing above the plaster, power from the ceiling and a duct route through the roof space.
Ducted Air Conditioning Replacement
Read the service guideOften, if they’re intact, insulated and big enough for the new unit. We check every run before quoting and tell you honestly which are worth keeping.
Usually not. Indoor and outdoor units are a matched pair, so on an old system we replace both, plus the controller that talks to them.
Repair a minor fault on a well-kept unit. If a major part fails on an older system, compare both prices; one over 15 years old typically uses more than three times the energy of a modern one.
No. Australia’s HFC phase-down, which started on 1 January 2018, doesn’t require consumers to replace existing equipment.
A licensed technician recovers it into a cylinder before the old units are disconnected. Releasing regulated refrigerants into the air is illegal.
Multi-Head Split Systems
Read the service guideMany run two to five heads. Each outdoor unit caps the number of heads, their sizes and total pipe length, and we match it to your rooms.
Yes, as long as every head is in the same mode. The Victorian Government suggests 18 to 20 °C for heating and 24 to 26 °C for cooling living areas; each degree beyond that adds around 10% to running costs.
Every connected head stops. That’s the main trade-off against separate splits, worth weighing if one room matters most, like a bedroom for someone who struggles in heat.
Only if the outdoor unit has a spare connection and enough capacity. If you might add a room later, tell us at the quote.
Often, because a single balcony or courtyard may be the only spot for an outdoor unit. Check with your owners corporation where units can go.
Bulkhead Air Conditioning
Read the service guideIt depends on the unit and the layout, because the bulkhead must also fit drain fall, duct connections and the return path. We give your builder sizes once the unit is chosen.
Most are reverse-cycle. In heating they move heat in from the outside air, which makes them far more efficient than a standard electric heater.
Inside, often, because you mostly hear air at the grille. A cramped return or a unit right over a bed makes it louder, so placement matters.
Full ducted puts a larger unit in the roof space with ducts to most of the house. A bulkhead unit serves one room or a small group from the ceiling line.
The return filter is cleaned from below. Coil, fan and drain service goes through the access panel, which is why the panel must be there and big enough.
Floor Standing Air Conditioners
Read the service guideNo. A console is a fixed split system, piped to an outdoor unit and wired on its own circuit. A portable vents through a hose, and a rental's heating standard asks for a fixed heater, not a portable.
Sized properly, yes. The top louvres throw cool air up and across the room. It won't make up for being undersized, so we size it for summer too.
Much more. A reverse cycle air conditioner can move three to five units of heat into the room for each unit of electricity, while a standard electric heater makes about one.
Melbourne is in the Cold zone on the Zoned Energy Rating Label, where heating is used much more than cooling, so read the Cold ratings. Compare the indoor noise rating too, since a console sits near your ears.
In many ranges, yes, if it's compatible with the shared outdoor unit. All the heads then run in the same mode at once, and if that outdoor unit stops, every room stops.
Evaporative Cooler Replacement
Read the service guideUsually. It needs a sound base and a good seal to the existing opening. A different footprint may need an adaptor or new flashing; the quote shows it.
Often, if they're intact, well joined and big enough for the new airflow. We check them in the roof space before quoting.
Only if the house needs it. The ducts have to carry the extra air and open windows have to let it out, or the house just feels humid.
It's drained, lifted off and taken away as part of the quoted job. Evaporative coolers hold no refrigerant, so there's no gas to recover.
Yes. A licensed electrician must provide a Certificate of Electrical Safety whenever they complete electrical installation work, and for non-prescribed work you must get a copy within 30 days.
Evaporative to Refrigerated Conversion
Read the service guideOccasionally, if a run is sound, insulated to suit and sized for the new airflow. Most aren't, and we tell you which before you commit.
No. Owner-occupiers aren't required to switch gas space heating to electric. Some keep a newer heater; others retire it now so there's one set of ducts.
Autumn to spring. The cooler is out of action from the day work starts, so a midsummer booking can mean hot days without cooling.
Not always. We check the switchboard before a new reverse-cycle system goes in, because ducted draws far more than a cooler's fan and pump.
Outlets that fit the new layout are reused and the rest are patched. We mark the plan out with you before anything is cut.
Heating & Cooling for New Homes & Renovations
Read the service guideAt the drawings stage if you can, when platforms, bulkheads and pipe routes are easy to change on paper. Before plaster is the last easy point.
Often, yes, though whether your own trades can work on site before handover depends on your building contract. Some owners have the builder leave it out; others keep the builder’s unit and have us add rooms later.
It depends on the permit and the date. New homes needing a planning permit have had to be all-electric since 1 January 2024, and from 1 January 2027 all new homes must be built all-electric. When renovating an existing home, owner-occupiers aren’t required to switch gas space heating to electric.
Ducted suits homes where most rooms are used and there’s roof space, ideally with zones. Splits suit homes that heat and cool a few rooms at a time, and wall units are the more efficient of the two. A mix works too.
It depends on the loads. Most household appliances, air conditioners included, run on single-phase power. Three-phase makes sense for a large ducted system, more than one EV charger or a workshop, and it’s easiest to arrange while the connection is being planned.
Gas Ducted Heater Replacement
Read the service guideOften, if they’re intact, insulated and big enough for the new heater’s airflow. We check each run and tell you which are worth keeping.
Not automatically. An extension may call for more capacity, while new ceiling insulation may mean you need less.
A well-sized, efficient heater on sealed ducts should use less gas than a worn one. Settings matter too: the Victorian Government suggests heating to 18°C to 20°C, and every degree higher adds around 10% to the bill.
Most straightforward changeovers are done in a day. Duct work, zoning or moving the heater takes longer, and the quote tells you how long to plan for.
Often, yes. Motorised dampers split the ducts into zones so each area can be heated on its own, which the Victorian Government recommends for ducted systems. It’s easiest to plan while the heater and ducts are being changed anyway.
Gas Ducted Heater Repairs
Read the service guideIf it’s set to heat and the fan runs but the air stays cold, the burner isn’t lighting or staying lit. Ignition, flame sensing, flue proving and gas supply are the usual suspects.
Usually overheating. Check the return grille isn't blocked and most outlets are open. If they are, the filter, house fan, ducts or limit switch need testing.
A heater that won’t light has shut its gas off. Stop using it if there’s soot, a smell, a bang on lighting, a changed flame or anyone feels unwell. Energy Safe Victoria warns all gas heaters can spill carbon monoxide.
The power, controller and wiring, yes. Energy Safe Victoria says gas heater servicing and repair should be done by a licensed Type A gasfitter, so burner-side work goes to one.
Often, if it’s one part and the heat exchanger is sound. A cracked heat exchanger or repeated breakdowns point to replacement. We price both, including a reverse-cycle option if you’d rather go electric.
Switching from Gas to Electric Heating
Read the service guideYes, if it’s sized for heating. Melbourne is in the Cold zone of the Zoned Energy Rating Label, where performance in frosting conditions below 5.5°C matters most, so compare the red Cold zone heating figures.
Federal energy guidance says even ducted reverse-cycle, which is less efficient than wall units, is more cost-efficient than gas heating. Your bills depend on tariffs, insulation and how many rooms you heat.
Not always. We check the board and the supply before quoting. Many homes run reverse-cycle heating on single-phase power when there’s room on both. Three-phase makes sense for a large ducted system, or when the home will also run EV chargers or a workshop, and we can upgrade single-phase to three-phase if that’s the right call.
A licensed gasfitter disconnects and caps the gas, timed with the install. Your quote should say who removes the old unit and seals the flue.
Talk to your rental provider first. The heater belongs to the property, so changing it is their decision and needs their approval.
Switchboard Repairs
Read the service guideIf the board is breaker-type, in good condition and the fault is limited to one device or connection, a repair is usually the sensible fix. Fuse boards, heat damage that has spread, or a backing panel that's breaking down are better replaced. We'll show you what we find before you decide.
It can be. Warmth and buzzing usually mean a loose or overloaded connection, which keeps heating until something fails. Switch off at the main switch if it's dry and safe to reach, keep everyone clear and book a repair rather than waiting to see if it settles.
Sometimes, but more often it's doing its job because there's a short or fault on the circuit. Unplug everything on that circuit and try once more. If it still won't reset, leave it off and we'll test the circuit and the device separately.
Yes. A licensed electrician must provide a Certificate of Electrical Safety whenever they complete electrical installation work, and that includes repairs. Replacing a single component usually doesn't need an independent inspection, but replacing the main switchboard does.
Usually for part of the visit. Most repairs need the board, or a section of it, isolated while we work. We tell you before switching off so you can save what you're doing, and we plan around medical equipment, the fridge and the freezer.
Circuit Breaker & RCBO Installation
Read the service guideOften, if the board is in good condition, has the space and takes compatible devices from its maker. A fuse board can't take them, and some older ranges are discontinued. We check the make and layout before quoting.
Not necessarily. Circuits already behind a working safety switch can stay that way. RCBOs on every circuit make most sense in busy homes where one trip takes out too much, or when the board is being rebuilt anyway.
A breaker ignores current leaking to earth, and an RCBO doesn't. A worn element, a damp outdoor fitting or tired cable insulation can show up as soon as the circuit has shock protection. We test circuits before connecting them to catch most of this.
One that suits your board, because devices need to match its chassis and busbar. We prefer Hager and Clipsal and use other reputable brands where they suit, and every device must be one that's permitted in Victoria.
Usually for part of the visit, while circuits are moved across. Converting a whole board takes longer than adding a couple of devices, and we'll give you the expected window when we book.
Electrical Mains Upgrades
Read the service guideThe usual signs are a main switch that trips when the house is busy, an installer flagging the supply, or old and damaged cable at the meter box. We confirm it by checking the cable, the main switch and what you plan to run.
No. A heavier cable doesn't use more power; it lets the house draw more at once without overloading. What you pay depends on what you run and your retail plan.
Start with us. We work out what's needed and lodge the request with your distributor if the connection has to change. If anything needs your sign-off along the way, we'll tell you what and why.
Only if your loads call for it. Three-phase makes sense for large ducted systems, several EV chargers, workshops and big combined loads. If heavier single-phase mains will carry what you're planning, we'll say so.
Sometimes. If one load, like an EV charger, is what tips the house over, a charger that slows down while other big appliances run may keep you within the existing mains. It can't manage everything, so we check the numbers first.
Single Phase to Three Phase Upgrades
Read the service guideOnly if your loads call for it. It makes sense for large ducted systems, more than one EV charger or a 22 kW charger, workshops with three-phase machines and heavy all-electric homes. We work it out from your appliances and how you use them.
Not always. The distributor decides whether three-phase is available at your property and on what terms. We lodge the request and confirm availability before you commit to anything.
Yes. Standard household appliances run on single phase, and each circuit is connected to one of the three phases. Only three-phase equipment uses all three.
Having three-phase doesn't make an appliance use more energy. Your bill depends on what you use and your plan, and supply charges can differ for a three-phase connection, so check with your retailer.
Our site work usually takes one to two days, depending on the mains route and the switchboard. The overall timeline depends on the distributor's approval and booking, and on the inspection.
Meter Panel Upgrades
Read the service guideThe box and panel are part of your installation, so they're yours to maintain. The meter and service fuse inside belong to the network. Powercor lists a defective meter box as the customer's to fix.
For a new box or panel, usually yes, because the distributor handles the meter. We lodge the request and plan our work around their booking. Repairs to a door, hinge or seal don't need them.
Often, for a renovation, driveway or extension. Moving it means rerouting or replacing the consumer mains and a distributor visit for the meter, and the new spot has to give the distributor the access it needs.
It may be pitch-based. WorkSafe Victoria lists pitch-based switchboards, such as the Zelemite brand, among asbestos-containing materials. Don't drill or clean it. We'll check it and plan the work around it.
Send us a photo of the notice and the meter box. Defects like a broken door, a missing service hook or a damaged fused mains box are the owner's to fix, and we'll quote the repair and certify the work.
Smoke Alarm Replacement
Read the service guideFollow the maker's date. The Building and Plumbing Commission says that's generally after ten years. Check the date on the back or under the battery cover.
No. Consumer Affairs Victoria says a hard-wired smoke alarm must be installed by a qualified electrician. You can change its backup battery yourself.
It may have reached the end of its life, the battery may not be seated properly, or a hardwired alarm may have lost mains power. If a fresh battery doesn't fix it, the alarm needs replacing or checking.
It isn't required, but it usually makes sense. Alarms of the same age fail close together, and linked alarms have to be compatible. One visit for the set saves chasing chirps.
It's worth considering, especially in a two-storey home or one where you can't hear the far alarm from the bedrooms. Homes built, largely renovated or extended after 1 May 2014 must have them.
Electrical Compliance Certificates
Read the service guideIt's the legal record of electrical installation work, issued by the registered contractor or licensed electrician who did it. It describes the work done and the tests carried out.
Yes. Whenever a licensed electrician completes electrical installation work, they must provide a certificate, even for a single power point or light.
No. A certificate records the issuing electrician's own work. We can inspect and report on someone else's work, and certify any rectification we carry out.
For non-prescribed work, Energy Safe Victoria says within 30 days. For prescribed work the certificate follows the inspection, and the law allows 4 business days after the inspector's certificate of inspection is given.
Prescribed work is work that a Licensed Electrical Inspector must inspect, such as consumer mains, a main switchboard or a meter box. Non-prescribed work covers things inside your installation, like lights, power points, air conditioning and hot water.
Electrical Defect Repairs
Read the service guideYes. Send us the report and we'll confirm each item on site, quote it and repair it. You don't have to use the electrician who did the inspection.
Anything dangerous should be dealt with straight away, and non-compliant items should be put right. Recommended items are your call. Rentals also have to meet the minimum standards and repair timeframes.
The rental provider organises and pays for repairs, unless the renter caused the problem.
Yes. We can quote each item for approval, arrange access with the renter and send the paperwork to the agent.
That's between you, the buyer and your conveyancer. We can quote each item so you know what's involved, and certify the work if you go ahead.
Electrical Maintenance
Read the service guideThere's no set rule for an owner-occupied home. Test your safety switches every three months yourself, and have an electrician look over the installation every year or two, more often for older homes and rentals.
Test your safety switches and smoke alarms, change a smoke alarm battery, reset a tripped switch once and change a light globe. Anything that involves wiring, including swapping a power point or switch, needs a licensed electrician.
No. The rental check is a formal inspection to AS/NZS 3019 with its own record. A maintenance visit fixes worn and faulty items. They can be booked together.
Usually, if we know the list beforehand and can bring the right parts. If something turns out bigger, we'll tell you and quote it separately.
Yes. Every safety switch is trip-tested. Ones that fail, stick or trip slowly are flagged for replacement.
LED Oyster Light Installation
Read the service guideA round or square ceiling light that sits flush, or nearly flush, against the ceiling. Oysters suit low ceilings, halls and bedrooms where a pendant would get in the way.
Usually, yes. Most oysters fit on an existing light point and use the same wall switch. We check the point is sound and the fitting can be fixed securely before it goes up.
Often. Old fittings leave a ring of discoloured paint or screw holes. A slightly larger oyster usually covers it, so measure or photograph the old base before choosing.
Yes, if it's rated for moisture and positioned correctly for its distance from the shower or bath. We check both before fitting one.
Some are, some aren't. A dimmable oyster also needs a dimmer made for LED loads, or it may flicker or hum. Tell us which rooms you want to dim and we'll match the two.
Shed & Garage Electrical
Read the service guideNot as a permanent setup. Leads get damaged, wet and overloaded, and a buried lead is a hidden hazard. A proper circuit with safety switch protection is the safe way to power a shed.
Not always. A garden shed with a light and a couple of points can run on one circuit from the house. A workshop with tools, heating or several circuits is usually better with a small sub-board.
It depends on the cable and how it's protected. The Wiring Rules set the depth and protection for underground cable, and we plan the route to stay clear of garden beds and future digging.
Usually, with the right circuit. Check the nameplate or manual for the current it draws. Many need a dedicated circuit or a higher-rated outlet, and we'll tell you whether your board and supply can take it.
Three-phase makes sense if you run machines built for it, or loads too large for a single-phase supply. If that's you, we can talk through an upgrade. Plenty of hobby and trade tools run on single-phase.
Bathroom Heat Lamp & 3-in-1 Installation
Read the service guideOne ceiling fitting with a heater, a light and an exhaust fan, each switched separately. Some heat with infrared lamps; others use a fan heater.
Often, but cut-out sizes vary between brands and models. We measure the old opening and choose a unit that fits or covers it, or adjust the opening to suit.
It depends on the unit and what else the bathroom circuit carries. Heaters are a heavy load, so we check before installing and tell you at quote time if a new circuit is needed.
They draw a lot of power while they're on, but most people only run them for a few minutes at a time. Switching them off when you leave matters more than the model you pick.
Swapping a lamp for one of the same type and wattage, with the switch off and the unit cool, is a normal householder job. Replacing or rewiring the unit itself is work for a licensed electrician.
Tesla Charger Installation
Read the service guideYes, with a portable charger, but it's slow and the outlet runs at a heavy load for hours. If you'll charge that way regularly, have the outlet and circuit checked first.
It works on single-phase, which suits most daily driving. Three-phase lets it deliver more, up to your car's limit, and makes sense if you have other large loads or plan to add them.
Not if it's set up properly. Its current is capped to suit the circuit, and on a tight supply we set a lower rate or use load management where your setup supports it.
Yes. Tell us the model before we book, so we can plan the circuit, protection and mounting it needs.
Often, yes. It has a Type 2 plug, the standard on most EVs sold in Australia. Some features are built around Tesla cars, so check the other car's manual.
TV, Data & NBN Cabling
Read the service guideYes. Planning them together shares the roof and wall work, and makes sure each spot has the power it needs.
For devices that stay put, usually yes. A data cable gives a steadier connection than Wi-Fi, which suits work calls, gaming and streaming. Wi-Fi still suits phones and laptops on the move.
Anywhere a device stays put and needs a reliable connection: the home office, behind each TV, the gaming spot and a central ceiling spot for a Wi-Fi access point. In a new build, add a spare or two.
Yes. We fit a recessed power point and the TV and data points behind where the screen will sit, with conduit down to the cabinet for HDMI and other leads.
NBN Co's own equipment is moved by NBN Co, usually arranged through your internet provider. We run cabling so the router sits where it's useful, and add power and data at a new spot if NBN Co moves its equipment.
TV Point Installation
Read the service guideYes. We extend or reroute the cable to the new spot and blank off the old plate. In most single-storey homes the cable can be dropped from the roof with little or no patching.
It depends on the signal strength at your home and how it's split. A few points are usually fine; more may need an amplifier. We check before adding outlets.
Usually a weak or noisy signal from old cable or connectors, too many splits, or an antenna problem. We trace it back before suggesting new points.
Yes. TV, power and data points go behind the screen, with conduit to the cabinet for HDMI and other leads. Tell us the bracket and height first.
No. Power leads aren't made to be built into walls. A recessed power point behind the TV hides the plug safely.
Data & Ethernet Cabling
Read the service guideIf you work from home, stream, game or have patchy Wi-Fi, usually yes. A few well-placed data points make a noticeable difference for the devices that matter.
Yes. Cabling Wi-Fi access points or mesh units gives each one a solid link back to the router, so coverage improves where it was weakest.
Anywhere a device stays put: desks, behind TVs, gaming setups, and a central ceiling spot or two for access points. In a new build, a spare in each bedroom is worth considering.
Usually. Reaching the ground floor takes more planning, through wall cavities, cupboards or the space between floors. We'll find the neatest route and tell you about any patching first.
Our job is the cabling: we run, terminate and test it, and fit the patch panel. Router and device settings usually sit with your internet provider or whoever manages your network.
NBN Cabling & Relocation
Read the service guideNot NBN Co's equipment itself. That's moved by NBN Co, usually arranged through your internet provider. We run cabling so the router can sit where you want it, and add power and data at a new spot if NBN Co moves its equipment.
Yes. A data cable from the NBN box to a wall plate in the new room lets the router sit there. It's often the best way to improve Wi-Fi.
Your internet provider can tell you. The equipment is also a clue: a fibre box on the wall, a device plugged into a phone socket, or a box connected to a cable outlet.
Ask your provider. What's available, and any charges, are set by NBN Co and your provider, not by us.
On fibre to the node or curb, the cabling inside your home can often be changed so the socket is where you need it. Anything on NBN Co's side of the network boundary stays with NBN Co.
Ducted Air Conditioning Repairs
Read the service guideOnce is reasonable: turn it off at the controller for a few minutes, then back on. If the same code returns or the safety switch trips again, stop resetting and book a repair. Repeated restarts can make some faults worse.
On cold mornings the outdoor unit defrosts itself from time to time, and the indoor fan may slow or stop while it does. If the air never warms up, the cause could be a sensor, the outdoor unit or the refrigerant, and that needs testing.
A light frost in winter heating that clears during defrost is normal. Ice that builds up and stays, or ice on the pipes in summer cooling, points to an airflow, sensor or refrigerant problem. Turn the system off and book a check.
In cooling mode the indoor coil makes water, which runs away through a tray and drain pipe. If the drain blocks or a condensate pump fails, the tray overflows into the ceiling. Turn the system off, keep clear of light fittings and book a repair.
Ducted reverse cycle has no gas side. On gas ducted heating, the controls and electrical faults are ours, but burner and gas valve faults are for a licensed Type A gasfitter. Our heater not working page explains the difference.
Ducted Air Conditioning Cleaning
Read the service guideUsually, if the return grille opens without tools and your manual explains how. Turn the system off first, work from a stable step and let a washable filter dry fully before it goes back in.
Often, when the smell comes from a dirty drain tray, coil or filter. If it comes back quickly, the drain may not be falling properly or water may be sitting where it shouldn't, and that's a repair.
Cleaning inside every duct run is a separate, specialist job. We clean the filter, grilles, outlets, coil face and drain tray, check the return and duct connections, and tell you if the ducts themselves need attention.
Washable filter media can be cleaned several times, but it eventually tears, flattens or stops coming clean. We'll tell you which yours needs and quote new media if it's due.
Yes. Dirty filters significantly cut airflow and efficiency, and cleaning or replacing them can lower energy use. A system can seem fine while it works harder than it needs to.
AirTouch 5 Installation
Read the service guideOften, but it depends on the make, model and age. Send us photos of the indoor unit labels and your current controller and we'll check before quoting.
No. They're optional. Without them, zones switch on and off and the system runs to one temperature reading. With them, each zone can hold its own temperature.
If they're in good condition and compatible, often yes. Worn motors and sticking blades are replaced, because the controller is only as good as the dampers it drives.
The wall console runs the system directly, so everyday use doesn't depend on the internet. Control from your phone while you're away needs your home Wi-Fi and internet connection to be working.
Polyaire says AirTouch 5 works with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa. If you use either, we can link it during setup.
Smart Air Conditioning Controls
Read the service guideUsually. If the maker offers a Wi-Fi adapter for your model, that's the best option. If not, a universal controller can add app control and schedules, with some limits.
If they're the same make, the maker's app usually handles them all. Mixed makes may need two apps, or a universal controller or smart home platform to bring them together.
They can, if you use them. Switching off empty rooms and keeping to the 18 to 20 °C heating and 24 to 26 °C cooling ranges the Victorian Government suggests both cut running costs. The app saves nothing on its own.
Many makers' apps link to Google Assistant or Amazon Alexa, but not every model does. We check yours before you buy anything for it.
Each unit has to be reconnected to the new network. Many adapters only join 2.4 GHz, so a router that combines bands under one name can cause trouble. We can reconnect them for you.
Air Conditioning Thermostat Replacement
Read the service guideNo. On most ducted systems the controller has to match the indoor unit, and connecting it is electrical work. Energy Safe Victoria says electrical work isn't a DIY job, even for small jobs.
Not always. A tripped breaker, a damaged cable or a failed board in the indoor unit can all blank the screen or cause a communication error. We test those before replacing the controller.
Most makers have a newer compatible model for older units. If not, a third-party zone controller may suit, depending on the unit. We check before quoting.
Yes. An inside wall away from sun, outlets and heaters reads the room better. Moving it means running new cable and patching or covering the old spot.
Some current controllers have Wi-Fi built in or as an add-on. Our smart air conditioning controls page explains the options for your system.
Air Conditioning Duct Replacement
Read the service guideSplit or brittle sleeves, flattened insulation, repeated joint failures and several rooms losing airflow over time are the usual signs. We assess them on site and tell you honestly.
Yes, if the unit is in good condition and suits the house. We check it while we're in the roof and tell you if it's near the end of its life.
Not always. Existing outlets can often be reconnected to new duct. If they're yellowed, noisy or in the wrong spot, it's a good time to replace or move them.
A few runs can be done in part of a day. A full network takes longer, depending on the size of the house and the roof access. You get a timeframe with the quote.
Not while ducts are disconnected. For a full replacement, plan on the system being off until the work is finished and tested.
Air Conditioning Vent & Grille Replacement
Read the service guideYes, if the ducts and collars behind them are sound. We check where access allows, because a new outlet on a loose duct won't fix the airflow.
Like-for-like outlets usually do. A different shape or size may need the hole recut and the plaster patched.
Usually it's too small for the air behind it, has a loose blade or isn't sealed at the collar. Sometimes the system is pushing too much air into too few open outlets.
Paint tends to clog the blades and peel in the warm airflow. Replacement gives a better result that lasts.
A return grille with a hinged face and a filter frame behind it. The filter lifts out for cleaning without tools, so it actually gets cleaned.
Multi-Head Split System Replacement
Read the service guideSometimes, if the manufacturer lists your existing heads as compatible with a current outdoor unit and the heads are in good order. More often the heads are too old to pair with a new unit, so we check the model numbers before we quote.
No. Australia's HFC phase-down cuts imports over time, but the federal environment department says consumers don't have to replace existing equipment. Replacement makes sense when repairs, running costs or comfort say so.
Possibly. The Victorian Government says a reverse-cycle system more than 15 years old typically uses more than three times the energy of a modern one. That's worth weighing alongside any repair quote.
Yes. If one room keeps fighting the others for heating or cooling, or a bedroom can't go without, separate systems may suit better. They need more outdoor space, so we check where the units could go.
A straightforward like-for-like swap usually takes one to two days on site. More heads, new pipe routes or switchboard work add time, and we give you the plan with the quote.
Multi-Head Split System Servicing
Read the service guideYes. Every head and the outdoor unit are done together, because they work as one system and the outdoor unit serves every room.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendation. In between, the Victorian Government suggests cleaning the dust filters yourself about twice a year, more often with heavy use.
Usually. A smell from one head normally comes from its coil, fan wheel or drain tray, and a deep clean of that head often fixes it. If it comes back quickly, we check the drain's fall.
Not as routine. A system only loses refrigerant through a leak, and topping up before the leak is found and repaired isn't allowed. If we see signs of a leak, we tell you and price the repair.
We note it and check the likely causes during the service. If it needs fault-finding beyond that, you get the diagnosis and a price before any repair.
Multi-Head Split System Repairs
Read the service guideEach head has its own fan, sensors, drain and pipe run, and its own valve in the outdoor unit. A fault in any of those can stop one room while the others keep running.
All the heads on one outdoor unit have to heat or cool together. If one controller is set to heating and another to cooling, some systems flash a warning or stop a head. Set them all to the same mode and see if it clears.
Only if it's leaking, and then the leak has to be found and repaired first. A system doesn't use up refrigerant in normal running.
In heating mode the outdoor coil frosts over and the system pauses to defrost it. Short pauses are normal. If the ice never clears, or the pauses are long and frequent, have it checked.
If the system is fairly new, check the manufacturer's warranty before booking any repair. Warranty work often has to go through the manufacturer's own service agents.
Evaporative Cooler Repairs
Read the service guideUsually because the pads aren't getting wet. The pump has stopped, the float isn't filling the tank, the water supply is off or the distributor lines are blocked. Old, scaled-up pads can do it too.
A trickle from the drain while it runs can be the normal bleed. A steady flow, or water running when the cooler is off, usually means the float valve or drain valve has stuck.
Moisture in the pump, motor, isolator or wiring is a common cause. Reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off, because it needs testing rather than repeated resetting.
Some older models have parts that are hard to get. We check availability before quoting, and if a part can't be sourced, we price a replacement cooler alongside any other options.
We test the controller and its cable back to the roof unit. A failed controller can often be replaced with a compatible model, depending on the cooler.
Evaporative Cooler Pad Replacement
Read the service guideThere's no fixed interval. It depends on your water, how much the cooler runs, the pad type and whether the bleed valve works. We judge them on their condition at each service.
A light clean can help pads with a little loose scale. Hard crust, sagging or a smell that won't clear means they're done, and scrubbing hard scale tends to break pads up.
Yes. Replacing one side leaves the others scaled and wetting unevenly, so every side is done together.
Some can, where the manufacturer offers them for that model. We check yours first, because pads that don't fit the frame leave gaps.
Yes. It's the most efficient time, because the tank is already drained and cleaned. Tell us when booking so we bring the right pads for your model.
Heat Pump Hot Water
Read the service guideYes. It's less efficient in cold air, but current units are built for conditions like Melbourne's, and many have a backup element for cold snaps. Running it during the day helps.
Often. It needs airflow, a level base and a drain. If the old spot is boxed in or under a bedroom window, we suggest somewhere better.
Usually. Most heat pumps need a dedicated circuit with safety switch protection and an isolator. We install both and check the switchboard can take the load.
A licensed plumber connects the water and a licensed gasfitter caps any gas, on the same visit as our electrical work. Your quote names who does each part.
It depends on how many people live there and when you use hot water. We size it to your routine, not to the old tank.
Heat Pump Hot Water Replacement
Read the service guideOften, if there's open airflow and a drain, and it isn't under a bedroom window. A wall-hung gas unit leaves no base, so a heat pump needs a level pad on the ground.
Not always. We check for a free position and safety switch protection first. If the board needs work, it's priced as its own line.
For a straightforward changeover, usually most of a day. Gas conversions that need a new circuit or switchboard work can take longer, and we plan the timing with you.
Unlike a gas continuous-flow unit, a heat pump stores hot water in a tank, so the tank has to be big enough for your busiest time of day. That's why we size it to your household.
No. The 2027 rule applies when a gas hot water system breaks and can't be repaired. Owner-occupiers don't have to switch gas heating or cooking either.
Heat Pump Hot Water Repairs
Read the service guideOften the heat pump has stopped and the backup element is doing the work, or the timer window is too short for cold weather. A failed element or thermostat can do it too.
A failed element, moisture in the unit or isolator, or damaged wiring are common causes. Reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off and have it tested.
Yes. Heat pumps make condensate as they pull heat from the air, and it drains away. Water from the tank, the fittings or a relief valve that never stops dripping is different and should be checked.
Some units lose their timer settings or need resetting after an outage. Check the display and timer first. If it still won't heat, it needs testing.
If the unit is fairly new, check the manufacturer's warranty before booking. Warranty repairs often have to go through the manufacturer's own service agents.
Electric Hot Water Replacement
Read the service guideUsually, if it's the same type and a similar size. A larger tank or a heat pump may need a different spot or a new base.
Only if you're regularly running out. We size it to how many people live there and when they use hot water.
With a like-for-like element tank, usually yes. A heat pump does better heating during the day, so we look at your tariff and solar before setting it up.
A failing element often leaks current to earth as it heats. Reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off and have the tank and circuit tested.
On a younger tank with no leaks, often yes. On an older tank, or one with rust or a leak, the money is usually better spent on a new unit.
CCTV Security Camera Installation
Read the service guideMost homes start with three to five: the front door, the driveway, side access and the back yard. We'll suggest a layout from your photos.
A wired system with a recorder keeps recording at home. You can't view it remotely until the internet is back. Cloud-only cameras stop saving when the connection drops.
Yes. We set up the app on your phone and show you how to view live, play back and save clips.
Not on a wired system: the data cable powers each camera from the recorder. Wi-Fi cameras need power at or near the camera, which we wire in.
Often, yes. Tell us the brand and model before we book so we can check what they need for power, mounting and setup.
Video Doorbell & Intercom Installation
Read the service guideA battery doorbell doesn't involve any wiring. Hardwiring one to a new transformer or supply is electrical work, which needs a licensed electrician.
Often. Many older homes have bell wire to the door and a small transformer. We check its condition and output, and replace the transformer if the new doorbell needs more.
Yes, through an indoor chime, or the existing bell where it's compatible, as well as phone notifications.
Where the gate or door has an electric lock, or a gate motor with an input for it, the intercom can be wired to release it. We check the lock and the cable run first.
The chime usually still rings, but phone notifications and recordings need the internet. A wired intercom works inside the house without it.
Bathroom Heater Installation
Read the service guideA wall-mounted fan heater warms a small room quickly. A heated towel rail adds dry towels and gentle background warmth. We'll suggest what suits your room.
Yes. We can swap it for a new heat lamp or 3-in-1 unit, or a different type of heater, and check the wiring and switching while we're there.
Larger ones usually do, so they don't overload the lighting or another circuit. We check the heater's load and your switchboard before quoting.
Only where the bathroom rules and the heater's instructions allow. Most heaters go high on a wall or in the ceiling, away from the shower and bath.
Yes. A timer or run-on switch turns the heater off after a set time, which saves power and wear.
Outdoor & Patio Heater Installation
Read the service guideIt depends on the size of the area, where people sit and how exposed it is to wind. We'll suggest a layout from your photos and measurements.
Most fixed heaters do, so they don't share the load with other outlets. We check the heater's rating and your switchboard before quoting.
Often, but the clearance from the roof matters more with some materials. We check the manual against your roof before we mount anything.
They're used for a few hours at a time and only warm the area they're aimed at. A timer stops them being left on, which keeps running costs in check.
Yes. A switch or timer can go inside, and many heaters also come with a remote.
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